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Routes in The Organ
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10 Percent T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Organ Grinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Organasm 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Organasm (Free) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky & Mike Strassman - Aug. 1983 |
| Page Views: | 13,427 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Mar 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
Organasm is an excellent intro into Zion aid climbing. At just 4 pitches, it's half the commitment of nearby neighbors Touchstone Wall and Spaceshot. Furthermore, pitches 1 and 4 may be free climbed at a modest 5.8 and 5.7, respectively.
P1 (5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.
P2 (C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1 placements. The crux of the route is probably cleaning this pitch, so be sure to read up on cleaning roofs BEFORE attempting (better yet, get some practice at your local area)! Continue past roof to a bolted anchor.
P3 (C2) A fairly long (150'?) pitch. Aid through second (smaller) roof and out onto arête. Straightforward nutting and good cam placements up this vertical crack, which ends on a nice ledge with bolted anchors.
P4 (5.7) Short section up easy 5.7 crack to top.
For a topo of the route, check this out.
P1 (5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.
P2 (C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1 placements. The crux of the route is probably cleaning this pitch, so be sure to read up on cleaning roofs BEFORE attempting (better yet, get some practice at your local area)! Continue past roof to a bolted anchor.
P3 (C2) A fairly long (150'?) pitch. Aid through second (smaller) roof and out onto arête. Straightforward nutting and good cam placements up this vertical crack, which ends on a nice ledge with bolted anchors.
P4 (5.7) Short section up easy 5.7 crack to top.
For a topo of the route, check this out.
Protection
- One to two sets of nuts (offsets work great)
- Two sets of cams to 4"
- Extras in #.5 and #.75 Camalot size helpful
- Extras in #2 Camalot size helpful
- Two ropes if planning on rapping from top of P2
The use of cam hooks should be avoided for soft rock areas such as Zion due to potential to damage the rock.
Descent
Descend to climbers' right via bushwack through gully to the north. Although fairly straightforward by daylight, just finding the descent gully would be difficult in the dark. Come prepared: bring a headlamp (and don't forget to check your batteries).
If pressed for time, retreat is possible from the top of pitch 2 via one double-rope rap.
If pressed for time, retreat is possible from the top of pitch 2 via one double-rope rap.
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