kenr
·
May 8, 2013
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
mattm wrote: > ... the most interesting thing I saw in there was the prevalent use > of a "Belay Sling". This is not something like a PAS or Anchor chain > but a large loop with a small, belay loop like smaller loop ... > Edelrid video ...
Thanks for introducing that new approach. At the end of the Edelrid video they do show how to use their belay sling as a PAS "leash" or "Anchor chain". Also as a leg prusik for ascending the rope.
I had been thinking in the opposite direction of how to use my Sterling Chain Reactor leash / anchor chain (which I already have used as a leg prusik for ascending) -- to help construct a quicker anchor (hybrid w rope) for when I lead multiple pitches in series.
Now this "adjustable belay station sling" looks like it might be a bit more versatile and adjustable.
Ken
Eric G.
·
May 8, 2013
·
Saratoga Springs, NY
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 70
Ryan N wrote: As far as setting up, I usually place the first piece, and if its bomber, then I clove my rope to it then I'm off belay. . . If its not bomber, then make the 3 point equalized anchor then clove to master then off belay. My 2cents...
My 2cents are to build your anchors out of bomber pieces.
I cannot imagine a scenario where I see a couple great placements for an anchor, but place a shitty one first, thus necesitating the use of your advice.
Check out this video. It goes through setting up a belay for multipitch and the climber uses a cordelette to do it. one of the best vids i've seen showing this topic. i recommend practicing this setup a few feet off the ground and see how it feels. also great demo of proper rope management
You can purchase 30' of 7mm and 2 rap rings for about the same price as 1 of those pre-sewn get-ups and have 2 ACR's for multi-pitch belays. This set up is also very inexpensive if you must leave it behind for a rappel anchor.
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