looking for D7 info
|
the MP page has good info but is a bit lacking on specifics. My partner and I would like to climb this in August or September. We're having a hard time visualizing the line and would love to see a photo with the route superimposed. |
|
Most people will camp past the lake at the base of the Diamond (not on Broadway) or do it car to car. If you slept on Broadway you would obviously have the best chance of getting on it first, but besides that there isn't a real reason to sleep on Broadway. The north chimney approach can be done fairly quickly (1-2 hours) and the route itself is "only" four-six pitches depending on how you run it. You can rap the route or continue up a few different options to the summit. |
|
Mark, |
|
thanks for the info. We're not super-strong and would prefer to have a leisurely day on the route, aiding as necessary. Above all, we don't want to create a bottleneck, and are going mid-week in hopes that the route will be more-or-less open. |
|
Hey buddy,I too just checked out your profile and would have to agree that some other goals may be better seeked out on your trip. I know the Diamond is in everyone's eyes the Jewel of Colorado, and it is incredible to climb on. However, 5.9 can feel like 5.11 up there, and there are so many other routes in the park that are incredible outings for you to explore. Here are just a few that you may want to look into. |
|
I definitely agree with those who are giving you really good and more plausible alternatives given your ability. I know that Climbing magazine did a short article on D7 not too long ago, and made it seem like it's a great route for people who aren't afraid to pull on gear, but the article is kind of deceiving. The Diamond is a *serious* undertaking, and D7, clean aided or not, is going to be very difficult for someone who can climb 5.7's trad and bolted 9s. |
|
How does the saying go? Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgment? Certainly how I learned. Go for it. |
|
A guy with Denali and a solo winter ascent of Mt. Whitney under his belt maybe doesn't need a lecture on the difficulties of high-altitude climbing. |
|
Eric Whitbeck wrote:Paul, Hey do most people who go car to car go up the North Chimney or rap in at Chasm view? Thanks in advanceN. Chimney. Having done both, I can tell you for sure it is faster. |
|
Eric, I've done the Chasm View rap, but I would not do it again. |
|
PRRose wrote:A guy with Denali and a solo winter ascent of Mt. Whitney under his belt maybe doesn't need a lecture on the difficulties of high-altitude climbing.I didn't look fully into these and would have to say I agree with you. Still look into those other routes if you have the time as they are classics with fabulous position on all of them. With that said Paul would you agree that technical rock on the Diamond and snow/ice on Denali are different enough to warrant 2 skill sets? If so it's feasable to better at one than the other even though both take place at altitude. Different topic I know, and not trying to start trouble. Just thought this was an interesting topic for people to share about since my experiences lie solely in the world of rock and have no desire to do the others. Possibly causing me to give advice with blinders on. |
|
Starting D7
D7 is awesome! It pretty much follows the same crack straight up for the whole route - There is a lot of fixed gear, and last year I believe every anchor is fixed. Take lots of draws ( 16? ) and a couple runners, double rack to #1, maybe #2, a #3 might be useful, a handful of micro stoppers gets you through the crux (which is short). Because of the fixed gear the route does go fast, as mentioned climbing "wall style" on the diamond is usually not recommended because of the long approach and nasty afternoon weather - even if you aid the harder climbing it shouldn't take more then a few hours P.S. - I can't Imagine a worse hell then hauling in the N. Chimney - plus its would be really dangerous for yourself and other climbers ( its sketchy enough without hauling - lots of loose rock ) If your really set on taking a bag up there then crack of delight would be much cleaner hauling, or just rap in from Chasm, Its really not bad - I prefer it actually , even using a rope in the N. Chimney can cause deadly rock fall. And no, Broadway is a huge ledge, no portaledge needed. |
|
1rsties4life wrote: I didn't look fully into these and would have to say I agree with you. Still look into those other routes if you have the time as they are classics with fabulous position on all of them. With that said Paul would you agree that technical rock on the Diamond and snow/ice on Denali are different enough to warrant 2 skill sets? If so it's feasable to better at one than the other even though both take place at altitude. Different topic I know, and not trying to start trouble. Just thought this was an interesting topic for people to share about since my experiences lie solely in the world of rock and have no desire to do the others. Possibly causing me to give advice with blinders on.You are totally correct. The are two completely different skill sets. I would never assume that someone who has climbed Denali or The Mountaineers route in winter would be capable of climbing D7. Maybe he can, maybe not...apples to oranges. But he does probably have a good idea of how much more difficult climbing at that altitude will be for him. |
|
^^^What he said. I have never approached the Diamond that way and am loathe to do it for that reason alone: |
|
Scary placement... I've always climbed the North Chimney and will continue to do so after seeing that. It reminds me of the old rap station off the back of the Petite in the early 90's. I remember a bunch of webbing wrapped around a dinner plate with a pin behind it, and the plate of rock could be picked up and re-positioned. |
|
Oh yeah, reaching around the block to thread the rope for the rappel, in the dark, is awesome! Politely suggest your partner goes first. |
|
Come now, the rap isn't that bad. The block is huge. The bolts on the back side are like a secret passage to a wonderful land. Invisible to hikers unless you know where to look. Straight out of Lord of the Rings. North Chimney is the better approach route though. |
|
That block is indeed massive - I don't think it's going anywhere any time soon. Perhaps this pic will give a better sense of scale when viewed in conjunction with the other pic above. Dude in the pic is about 6'3" |
|
Kenan wrote:That block is indeed massive - I don't think it's going anywhere any time soon. Perhaps this pic will give a better sense of scale when viewed in conjunction with the other pic above. Dude in the pic is about 6'3" One thing about the chasm view raps that people haven't mentioned yet... If you're planning to summit the Diamond, you can descend the North Face (old cables route) and you'll walk right past Chasm view on the way down. So you could potentially bivy around there instead of on Broadway and save yourself the pain of hauling bivy gear up the North Chimney. I still think car-to-car light-and-fast is much better overall, but just throwing that out there...I've done that and it worked out pretty well, although I'll probably never do it again. Had a bit of a scare when it started to rain (while we were on the Casual Route) a bit and we thought we might have to bail...down...with all our bivy gear still up at Chasm View. Wasn't looking forward to going back up there to retrieve it, but we ended up ok, went to the top and all was good. |