Power Fingers
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1980, Re-Lead as Repo Man: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel, 1986 |
Page Views: | 2,681 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 27, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the prominent gold streak under a roof to the left of Figures on a Landscape. Controversy surrounds the early days of this climb. It was first climbed by Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning in 1980. Allegations are that the route was bolted on rappel and that holds were chipped. At the time of the ascent in 1980, the ethic was only to bolt routes ground up on the lead. Chipping of holds wasn't ok and still isn't. Later, after several ascents and the chopping of the original bolts, Jonny Woodward and Darryl Hensel re-climbed and re-bolted the route.
Pitch 1: Crimp your way past four bolts before making some strenuous moves between underclings. The powerful crux, and the insecure thin moves following it, come several feet out from the last 1/4" bolt. Belay at a two bolt anchor below the roof.
Pitch 2: Undercling right (5.10+) then lieback the right side of the huge flake (5.9) up to a bolt anchor. (1 to 3 inch pro for this pitch)
Pitch 3: Up, then left (10+) on steep face past 6 bolts to the top. There are three bolts for the anchor at the very top.
To descend, look south (toward the South Astro Dome) about 40 feet to the first of two rap anchors (each rappel is less than 100 feet).
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