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Routes in -Shagg Crag
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Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Diesel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Elephant Knows, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Generous Sons S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grand Escape, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grimas De Oro V8 7B |
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It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lady’s Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long and Short of It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nice Lady S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Night Moves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Raging Bull, The V8 7B |
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Rain Czech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Screw It S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Shagg Zag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Short Bobcat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Solstice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Summer Smoke S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ubershagg S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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What About Bob? S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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When the fat lady sings S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Jim Ewing, Nate Kimble, Steve Dyer |
| Page Views: | 2,837 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | chris deulen on Apr 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine
Details
2024. Update: Nesting peregrine falcons have been confirmed on the right (southeast) side of Shagg Crag.
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
To help ensure a successful breeding season climbers are being asked not to climb on the Rhino Boulder, routes to the right of "Block Buster“, or proceed on foot beyond this point. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.
To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…
Description
WABC is the right variation to WAB after the ledge rest. Start out the same for WAB (the cheater way starts in the juggy side pulls to the left of the start and would probaly only merit a 12c rating accompanied by shaming from the locals).
This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up.
WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion.
This is the more common finish (bolted by Jim Ewing in '05/'06; Steve Dyer's nickname is apparently "bobcat") and moves into the start of the small dihedral and then exits right to another crux: moving back out to more face climbing with fun moves. (A knee bar is rumored to be used around here.) The chains are 2 bolts up.
WABC is probably the diamond in the rough of Shagg. The moves are exciting, fun, and nearly every section has 2 or 3 types of beta, all equally fun but suited to different styles. Right on par with Shagg It (though much different climbing). I'm surprised more people don't get on this thing, though with it's intimidating looking start and never-ending movement, it might not be hard to see why. That said, this route is freakin awesome! This will definitely be one I might find myself coming back to again and again. Top 3 best routes at Shagg in my opinion.
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