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Personal Anchor system on bigwalls

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Mark,
Your method makes sense as I have wondered about popping a piece and falling onto my other daisy.

Now my next question is:
What's keeping you from dropping an aider?

Let's say I:
1. place a cam with it's own biner dangling from an overhanging crack.
2. clip aider by itself into the cam's sling
3. bounce test and decide it's good
4. clip adjustable daisy into the cam's sling
5. step up and pull adjustable daisy tight

This means I now have three carabiners in the cam's sling (the cam's wiregate, aider on locker, and adjustable daisy on locker)

Seems like a lot of extra stuff going on that I wasn't previously dealing with. Having one locker for the aider/daisy along with the piece's wiregate was already a pain with biner shift.

I guess I'm newer to aid than I thought as I have never heard of separating the daisy and aider.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I learned to climb aid back in the days when a daisy had a different function. It was only a small chain of biners from your waist to be used while top stepping. We were never attached to our aiders like climbers are these days.
In all of my couple dozen multi-day aid routes, I've never dropped a set of aiders and on all of those routes my partners have dropped only one set. It's not something I worry about, although I do carry an extra set of light aiders in the haul bag.

I use a Kong adjustable fifi about 95% of the time when I want to go hands free in my aiders and quite often, quickly getting into the rest step position is easy, fast and comfortable.

Cheyne uses two ladders always clipped to two Metolius Adjustable daisies and he ain't exactly slow or always tangled up so it's all what you get used to.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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