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Crack of the World
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in RGC - Open Spaces Area
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Crack of the World T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cross Eyed Owl T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Open Spaces S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Owl Be Seeing Ya T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Owl's Highway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RGC (Roger Gagne Classic), The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smitty's Sport Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | David Quinn |
| Page Views: | 2,394 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on Oct 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Standing at the base, below The Smoky Dike, look to the left and up high. On the skyline you will see a zigging handcrack up an arching flake. Get in the right spot and you can actually see right through it. Here is how you get there, because I know you want to:
Pitch 1 starts in the left facing, big corner to the left of Owl's Highway. Because the bottom is wet, head up the finger crack just left of it, which then arches over and brings you back to the corner. Continue up, clipping a couple bolts, get a shake and finish out through the steep slot to the shared bolted belay of RGC and Owl's Highway. 11c
Pitch 2 shares with The RGC. Head up the crack above the belay for about 10 -15 feet until you can do the long fun traverse right which gets you to flakes that take you up to the next bolted belay. Above you is the arching crack that from the ground made you want to climb it. 5.8
Pitch 3: Head up more flakes to gain the steep crack. It becomes wider and more pumpy as you go until it is rattly fist sized. As it starts to arch over to the right, reach up and left and pull your self over to the bolt belay. 11c
Pitch 4: Walk over the slab to the wall on the left. establish yourself on the wall (crux) and head up and left to a bolted belay at the top of the cliff. 10c
Getting down: Carefully rap, making use of the intervening bolted belays below. A single 60 m rope will get you down with a few stops.
Pitch 1 starts in the left facing, big corner to the left of Owl's Highway. Because the bottom is wet, head up the finger crack just left of it, which then arches over and brings you back to the corner. Continue up, clipping a couple bolts, get a shake and finish out through the steep slot to the shared bolted belay of RGC and Owl's Highway. 11c
Pitch 2 shares with The RGC. Head up the crack above the belay for about 10 -15 feet until you can do the long fun traverse right which gets you to flakes that take you up to the next bolted belay. Above you is the arching crack that from the ground made you want to climb it. 5.8
Pitch 3: Head up more flakes to gain the steep crack. It becomes wider and more pumpy as you go until it is rattly fist sized. As it starts to arch over to the right, reach up and left and pull your self over to the bolt belay. 11c
Pitch 4: Walk over the slab to the wall on the left. establish yourself on the wall (crux) and head up and left to a bolted belay at the top of the cliff. 10c
Getting down: Carefully rap, making use of the intervening bolted belays below. A single 60 m rope will get you down with a few stops.
Location
Head left from the approach trail. From the flat topped block with the corner crack above that marks the start of "Owl's Highway", step down left around into a nice looking big left facing corner that is unfortunately usually wet and mossy at the bottom. To get around the wetness, the route starts up the finger crack just to the left.
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