rap to the largest pine tree and then to the deck (if rapping the route)

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > State Highway 313 > Hell Roaring Ca… > Kachina Spires > Kachina Tower South (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0)

rap to the largest pine tree and then to the deck (if rapping the route)

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crossing the slabs to reach the hand crack

Hell Roaring Canyon from the vicinity of the parking area

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paul bucher

May 7, 2013

“rap to the largest pine tree and then to the deck (if rapping the route)”

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Nearby Photos

last pitch with me on top

the money pitch, just under the first mando free move

Nice view of the last 2 pitches. (photo Jay Miller)

Paul Ross and Paul Gardner on the first ascent October 1999

The entertaining approach into Hell Roaring Canyon. March 2012

the start

the O/W

evening light on the Kachina Towers

Erick amazed by the slabby boulder problem

summit view

crossing the slabs to reach the hand crack

rap to the largest pine tree and then to the deck (if rapping the route)

Hell Roaring Canyon from the vicinity of the parking area

The only way we found into the Valley was a rap off a large block on the lowest shelf. Just to the right of directly across the towers in this photo. Huge slanted block tettering on the edge to the left of the drop zone

The rap zone behind the slanted block

Kachina towers north (closer) and south (farthest)

start of "pitch" 1

The rap zone across the towers... atleast 40m rope required to touchdown

Climb out of the toilet bowl wash and towards plateau around to the right towards the towers

Easy steps down the edge leads you to the pitch 4 OW

closer look at P-1

To the left of pitch one u will find the hand crack to pitch 2

Erick sport climbing the offwidth pitch

looking back toward the ramps that access the canyon bottom

S Kachina Tower

the fine rock on the north Kachina Tower

the bowl that signals the start of the ridge traverse to the tower; if you didn't bring double ropes you'll backtrack to here to do the final raps

Coming up pitch 1. There is a crack system you can put an anchor in at the top of the slab. Warning* slab features were crumbling apart

Inside the OW squeeze chimney

Pitch 1 anchor. I used a .75 (or .3 cant remember exactly).5, #3 and #5 in crumbling sandstone... still bomber

Bolt/piton ladder to the top

After pitch 2 move up onto this shelf. A .3 and a ladder work great in the horizontal crack

Topo. The 'weakenss'/ the easy climbs/scrambles to the tower

Carefully follow the edge of the rim towards the south tower. Easy 3rd class approaches

about to start the crawl

Without a #6 on my rack I decided to squeeze into the chimney through this hole! One of the coolest parts of the climb! But the way out is even tighter #nofatkids

the "pitch" 2 hand crack

The only was out of the chimney is where the rope runs. Warning extra tight fit... had to take off all gear from my harness and helmet to fit. Also be careful where u place your ur stuff. Lots of potential to drop it to the Valley floor

the start wash and route

Topo. The yellow is the 80th meridian. Lots of bad beta on here for this. Or confusing beta. The green is the easy climbs to the tower

view from the fence of the decent into the canyon

Rap to a ledge then to the knotch. From those anchors for the tip of P1 of the meridian you can go all the way down. We had 2 70m.

P-2

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