A cool variation I have concocted after climbing this thing several times. This variation includes a couple of the best features on this wall IMO -A great section of splitter hands, and a beautifully exposed traverse beneath the summit roof. From lunch ledge, climb a full 60m into a fairly obvious alcove for a comfortable belay ~10m below the first of 3 short "roofs". (A 60m rope is just enough not a rope stretcher). From here work over the first two small "roofs" trending right to what looks like a flaring fists roof at the start of the splitter. Avoid climbing too high and traversing under the roof into the splitter. The small "roof" and splitter are actually very secure and easy hands on a featureless face. After 55m there is a nice belay in a small alcove just right of the walk up ledge entrance. Traverse under the roof (stay low). Place a piece and make the transition onto the vertical face at the end of the traverse. Climb up a short section of buttlips corner to the summit. All the climbing on this variation is very protectable. Due to the long pitches I recommend bringing doubles to 3 and rationing gear placements.

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Some climbers at the top of pitch 3, very short pitch

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Kyle Pease

May 3, 2013

“A cool variation I have concocted after climbing this thing several times. This variation includes a couple of the best features on this wall IMO -A great section of splitter hands, and a beautifully exposed traverse beneath the summit roof. From lunch ledge, climb a full 60m into a fairly obvious alcove for a comfortable belay ~10m below the first of 3 short "roofs". (A 60m rope is just enough not a rope stretcher). From here work over the first two small "roofs" trending right to what looks like a flaring fists roof at the start of the splitter. Avoid climbing too high and traversing under the roof into the splitter. The small "roof" and splitter are actually very secure and easy hands on a featureless face. After 55m there is a nice belay in a small alcove just right of the walk up ledge entrance. Traverse under the roof (stay low). Place a piece and make the transition onto the vertical face at the end of the traverse. Climb up a short section of buttlips corner to the summit. All the climbing on this variation is very protectable. Due to the long pitches I recommend bringing doubles to 3 and rationing gear placements.”

Nearby Photos

Andrew following up the splitter variation to the right of the railroad tracks

Photo Route Overlay: South Face of Shoshone Spire

You'll see this before crossing the river, follow the line for the climbers trail to the base (NOT lunch ledge) of south face

Nicole getting ready to lead the 4th pitch

From the P5 rap station looking down the whole wonderful route.

P3 Stiffest moves on the route and arguably the most fun. Though I mean, this climb as a whole is just breezy fun :-)

Lpnut about to start the traverse to get to ledge at end of p4

Tom slaying it on the ~5th pitch (we did it in six).

The top of the spire. The last pitch tops out on the ledge with the tree on the right.

Bolted rap station by tree. The tree thanks whoever put this in. Otherwise it would be choking on slings.

At the end of P5 on Shoshone South Face. Poison Flower roof is in the back, to climbers right.

Rail road tracks pitch. Sooo fun! Just wish it was longer.

Heading up talus towards Shoshone. Cross the talus up and left to find a nice climbers' path that leads you all the way to the base of the route.

We climbed the route on July 3rd and had a hell of a time crossing the river directly parallel with the tower. I would recommend crossing further down in the very calm section where theres plenty of large logs. (far left of photo)

The bolted rap station is on the rock beside this distinct and lovely tree. One rap to ground with double ropes.

Starting up Pitch 4 (second pitch above Table Ledge).

Traversing to the poison flower finish from the standard walk off ledge

Pitch 2 (this is the lower start below Table Ledge).

You look at photos beforehand of this spire and you're like "wow that's big". Then you get there and find out it's, like, the smallest piece of rock out there!

So grateful at an 11:20pm October top-out. Amazing climb with magnificent views. This is without a doubt in our top 3 favorite climbs so far. The descent was a little scary in the dark having never done it before, but we managed.

This is the "Big Bonsai Tree" where you will find the two bolt rap station

Looking up Pitch 1 (this is the lower start below Table Ledge).

Location of second rap anchor (there as of Aug 2018) that allows you to rap with a single 70.

Getting started on pitch 1. Note that I don't think this is the traditional start (see Steph Abegg's photo). Probably the hardest climbing of the route (5.9ish) but still breezy and you can't turn down those zigzagging splitters

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