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Frictiony Face Panty Waist
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 97 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Danny Meyers, Brad Stewart 1989 |
Page Views: | 8,933 total · 56/month |
Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Apr 4, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Friction Face is a sustained and exciting slab climb. There are multiple difficult sections with very few positive holds to rest on. The bolts are well spaced to make this a spicy, but safe lead. This climb faces south and requires a good amount of friction, so save it for those cooler days.
From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.
Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.
From a nice belay ledge, climb straight up clipping a bolt and begin to trend up and left. Clip a few more bolts and head straight up through a varnished section of rock. Some of the varnish is questionable, so use caution. Pull over a ledge and your at the anchors.
Note, there is another set of anchors to the left in a right facing corner, this is for another climb. You should climb straight up after the last bolt. It also seems that this climb may have "sprouted" a retro bolt.
Location
If you are heading up towards the Running Man wall, you take the 3rd/4th scramble up the slabs, this is directly above that approach. When you top out the stemming move from the scramble and reach the Running Man platform, bee line straight up to the face. You will notice a short un-aesthic right facing dihedral just to the left of this climb and bolts on a red face. This is about 50yds to climbers left of the climb Running Man. A single 60m rope will get you down.
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