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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Woman T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pedernal Cracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Olsen - Fritz Devendorf |
| Page Views: | 2,095 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | James Olsen on May 10, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
1st Pitch: Start at the beginning of the Guillotine, but partway up veer a little more right. This makes for a more sustained grade. Head for the right side of a pocket ledge a little higher and about 15' to the right of the Guillotine ledge. You will be about 5' from the rollover edge of the face as you approach the top of the pitch. Near the top of the pitch is the 5.7 crux; some sloping hands and feet in an area without placements, not quite runout. (185')
2nd Pitch: Go straight up from climber's right side of ledge to a ledge above, then continue upward, drifting right to a substantial tree. First part of the lead is exposed 5.6. (about 75')
3rd Pitch: Go up gully with a crack to a face, then up face. As you ascend you first drift a little right, then drift a little left. First part is 5.5. (about 70')
Route changes character as you ascend, and the beginning of the second pitch is most gratifyng.
2nd Pitch: Go straight up from climber's right side of ledge to a ledge above, then continue upward, drifting right to a substantial tree. First part of the lead is exposed 5.6. (about 75')
3rd Pitch: Go up gully with a crack to a face, then up face. As you ascend you first drift a little right, then drift a little left. First part is 5.5. (about 70')
Route changes character as you ascend, and the beginning of the second pitch is most gratifyng.
Location
The route starts at the same place as the Guillotine and ends up on the highest bit of the crag.
To descend, you can scramble climbers left and rap down Juniper overhang, carefully scramble climbers right on a discontinuous ledge to a second and final rap station, or climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
To descend, you can scramble climbers left and rap down Juniper overhang, carefully scramble climbers right on a discontinuous ledge to a second and final rap station, or climb up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
Protection
Bring a typical El Rito rack with cams to 3.0 or better 3.5. and an extra piece of sling material at least 8' long. This is a totally trad route. At second belay sling knob and tie to 2 larger cams placed in shallow crack like feature. If you tie all together it will probably make an adequate anchor.
Photos
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