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Freebie Bolts..safe?

Original Post
Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

So my buddy gave me some freebie bolts and before messing with them I wanted to know if they were legit. He bought a box at a hardware store, so it made me question their quality in a climbing application. He also gave me some Fixe hangers, I believe they're stainless steel. I don't know if the bolts are also stainless. I know you shouldn't mix stainless with plated, so this is another question I'm looking to get answered. Any info anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated.

ALSO, they'd be placed in super solid granitic gneiss. If placed at all.

Hanger and bolt. The stamp on the hanger reads "FIXE 038D-10 30-KN INOX". There are no stamp on the bolts.

Box of bolts.

Box of bolts.

Box of bolts.

Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

I just googled "Red Head WS-3836", which was printed on the box label. It bought me to this link http://www.drillspot.com/products/44321/Red_Head_WS-3836_Wedge_Anchor that said they were carbon steel. So a no go on mixing these bolts and hangers?

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Edited:
I was wrong, thinking of something else. Redheads are listed in the "acceptable" category here:
safeclimbing.org/education/…

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Typically people don't buy climbing equipment at hardware stores. There are climbing applications for such bolts, but anyone who is qualified to use them wouldn't have to ask on the internet.

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

You should get stainless bolts to go with those hangers. Those Redheads are what we call plated steel (zinc).
Redheads have been used by climbers thousands of times, but IMO are the bottom rung of bolts. You are already ahead a couple bucks per unit with free hangers, get some nice stainless Hilti Kwick bolts, stainless Powers 5 pc., or a good glue in.

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

What Mike said.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Mike Lane wrote:You should get stainless bolts to go with those hangers. Those Redheads are what we call plated steel (zinc). Redheads have been used by climbers thousands of times, but IMO are the bottom rung of bolts. You are already ahead a couple bucks per unit with free hangers, get some nice stainless Hilti Kwick bolts, stainless Powers 5 pc., or a good glue in.
Mike is right. Get stainless steel bolts to match with those hangers. If you are worried about price, then go to the website I listed below. They carry stainless wedge bolts for between $1.25-1.65 a bolt (it depends on what they are carrying at the moment...it varies between Hilti, Powers, etc., but always quality hardware). As Mike said, you already have good hangers for free, it seems trivial to drop ~$1.50 per bolt for bomber hardware.

rapbolting.com/
FooDawg · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 355

LOL, they weren't bought througha hardware store, they were bought through a bolting gear supplier (think gearx maybe) few years ago, same with the hangers....

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
FooDawg wrote:LOL, they weren't bought througha hardware store, they were bought through a bolting gear supplier (think gearx maybe) few years ago, same with the hangers....
This doesn't change the fact that he has SS hangers and plated bolts.

Buy new bolts Cricket.
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Since Rock Cricket is posting from CT, does the type of bolts used matter much? Ken Nichols will probably chop them by mid-summer anyway.

If the stainless bolts also come with a special Ken-proof coating, then you are in business.

FooDawg · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 355
JCM wrote:Since Rock Cricket is posting from CT, does the type of bolts used matter much? Ken Nichols will probably chop them by mid-summer anyway. If the stainless bolts also come with a special Ken-proof coating, then you are in business.
Lolol, check out the new Rock and Ice for an article on what's up these days around here. Just saw it yesterday myself...
Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

Thanks for the good suggestions. When it comes time to put some in I'll definitely go pick up some stainless.

And as for Ken. That old bolt chopping bastard doesn't know the spots I'm heading to.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Meh, they are Red Heads. They are okay, but better bolts exist. Anyway, if you have to ask this type of stuff on the net you need more experience and knowledge before bolting. Get with a local expert in your area.

Kirk B. · · Boise, ID · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 60

I concur with several above posters. There are better bolts.

Rock Cricket · · Norfolk, CT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 30

I have already talked to an experienced bolter that I know and if I'm lucky he'll mentor me for a bit. Also, I have placed practice bolts in smaller rocks before. Don't worry, I'm not going out there willy nilly bolting shit without experience. Aside from researching all of the legit info on bolting (ASCA, Camp4, etc.), why not ask opinions of experienced individuals online. People have to start somewhere right? As I'm sure some of you did. I am simply asking because I haven't heard of the bolts before. Yes, I could have googled them - and did, but I wanted to get some consensus, if there was some to be had.

Thanks for all the good advice,
Ryan

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926

Agreed Ryan. Asking questions online is no big deal...more information always helps. Good luck.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

Those bolts are fine so long as they are matched with the correct hanger and used in the correct environment (i.e. Desert and the likes. Not wet or salty conditions.).

As far as the stuff you have?

SS to SS unless you're looking for a reaction.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

See if your bolts stick to a magnet. The hangers will have a very mild attraction as a comparison (they're 300 series stainless). If the bolts are plated steel (and I suspect they are), they'll stick to a magnet.

Especially in the east in the U.S., I'd bump up to stainless for sure. Its just too wet to consider otherwise.

Not sure I've ever seen galvanic corrosion from disimilar metals used as a climbing anchor, ie, a stainless hanger and non-stainless bolt, but, if it did occur, the bolt would be the item sacrificied and the damage probably wouldn't be visible (except maybe rust streaks).

Stainless versus non-stainless...here's the difference from Stone Mountain in North Carolina...:

Stone Mountain, NC

Syd · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Rock Cricket wrote: ALSO, they'd be placed in super solid granitic gneiss.
Never consider them for sandstone ... re the death on Bunny Buckets.
tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023
Brian in SLC wrote:See if your bolts stick to a magnet. The hangers will have a very mild attraction as a comparison (they're 300 series stainless). If the bolts are plated steel (and I suspect they are), they'll stick to a magnet. Especially in the east in the U.S., I'd bump up to stainless for sure. Its just too wet to consider otherwise. Not sure I've ever seen galvanic corrosion from disimilar metals used as a climbing anchor, ie, a stainless hanger and non-stainless bolt, but, if it did occur, the bolt would be the item sacrificied and the damage probably wouldn't be visible (except maybe rust streaks). Stainless versus non-stainless...here's the difference from Stone Mountain in North Carolina...:
That's a great post Brian.
tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

Why doesn't climbtech make 3/8" removable bolts?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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