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Knots in ropes

Original Post
Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Hi people, hey do any of you guys know if tying and alpine butterfly will weaken a ropes strength?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I will go out on a limb and say that all knots weaken a rope. Some less than others.

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

so lets say I took a good whipper on a half rope with a few alpine butterflys in it, it would not break?

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die?

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I have just been tying a heap of butterflys in my 1/2 rope and clipping my up it, you can take a few whippers at times doing this. Being a half rope with quite a few knots in it, makes me freak a little at times, how worried should I be. Will a half rope straight up snap on me?

jackhmullen · · Oceanside CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0
Ray Pinpillage wrote:If I take a whipper with a figure 8 in the rope will I die?
Yes, also if you drink from a Nalgene that isn't BPA-free.
Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I am for real guys, is this super bad and I should stop now or will this hold?

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Any bend in the rope will weaken the rope
Butterfly knot reduces strength of rope to 75% - according to this source

More rigorous testing can be found here, they quote 70.8%+-3.2% for dynamic ropes, and 80.6%+1.6% for static. Discrepancy can probably be explained by difference in diameter and construction

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

thanks for the info guys, but I am traveling and have no climbing parners and only my half rope.

come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon.

SavageMarmot · · Nederland, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 190

Take your life into your OWN hands. Go free solo something, we're all gonna die. The lucky ones do it on their own terms.

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
Locker wrote:"come on locker, give me a better way to do it without having to spend two hundy on a little stupid rope eating traxon." You can get a Mini traxion for well UNDER $200.00. There are also many other devices that can be used for the same purpose that you can pick up cheap on EBAY and HERE and in the back seat of that idiots car with all the climbing stickers on it (Not suggesting you rip anyone off. "Just saying"). PS... I personally value my life more than $200.00. (Like $200.01 for instance) But to each their own!
Yea well 5 haven't really got 100$ let alone two. For real, what are some other ways to top rope solo with nothing more than a rope and a reverso 3
Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
Locker wrote:Prusik with a DYNEEMA sling, for a REAL treat. ;-)
Yea, real fun treat.
Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I like having the rope kinda free so I can climb all ove the place.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960

<- wonders if a new charity thread for another rope solo device is coming...

Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
Locker wrote:I was going to suggest tying it around your neck but figured that might not go over real well. Another suggesting is GET A FUCKING JOB so you can afford PROPER gear! Don't you fucking HATE when douchebags write that shit? I know I do! LOL!
Isn't that what people following a route are ment to do?

get a job-meh-they won't let me work in this shitire country they call the USA- whats a lad to do?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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