Do note that similar to other climbs in the area, there is this super shiny type of rock (I forget the name, but I think it is serpentine) which in terms of friction offers you the complete opposite of granite. You can clearly see the difference in rock type in this photo of the 3rd pitch (slippery stuff on right side of photo). It is easy to place foot on this rock or rappel across it and slip. It feels much like stepping on wet glass even with rock shoes, just take care to avoid it.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Ingalls Peak > S Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Do note that similar to other climbs in the area, there is this super shiny type of rock (I forget the name, but I think it is serpentine) which in terms of friction offers you the complete opposite of granite. You can clearly see the difference in rock type in this photo of the 3rd pitch (slippery stuff on right side of photo). It is easy to place foot on this rock or rappel across it and slip. It feels much like stepping on wet glass even with rock shoes, just take care to avoid it.

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Serpentine boulder ledge

Adam observing Mt. Stuart from Ingalls Peak. Single 70M rope will be fine :)

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3.8 from 5 votes

Andy P.

Apr 20, 2013

“Do note that similar to other climbs in the area, there is this super shiny type of rock (I forget the name, but I think it is serpentine) which in terms of friction offers you the complete opposite of granite. You can clearly see the difference in rock type in this photo of the 3rd pitch (slippery stuff on right side of photo). It is easy to place foot on this rock or rappel across it and slip. It feels much like stepping on wet glass even with rock shoes, just take care to avoid it.”

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Nearby Photos

View of the route from South Ingalls

The route runs from the snow in the very bottom left, past the fin, and up the sunlit ridge/face on the left.

Ingalls North Peak, South Ridge route. Photo taken from Ingalls South Peak.

The route. Tat anchors are circles; bolt anchors are Xs. Variations possible.

Coming up the last pitch

View from ground to pitch 4

North and East Ingalls Peaks from the approach basin (just after coming over Ingalls Pass). South Ridge (5.4) and East Ridge (5.7) up North Ingalls Peak shown.

Emma & Erik coming up pitch 2

Early season ascent. Wild rappel.

Pitch 1 of the South Ridge in early season with solid snowpack.

Summit of North Ingalls in late May.

Serpentine boulder ledge

Do note that similar to other climbs in the area, there is this super shiny type of rock (I forget the name, but I think it is serpentine) which in terms of friction offers you the complete opposite of granite. You can clearly see the difference in rock type in this photo of the 3rd pitch (slippery stuff on right side of photo). It is easy to place foot on this rock or rappel across it and slip. It feels much like stepping on wet glass even with rock shoes, just take care to avoid it.

Adam observing Mt. Stuart from Ingalls Peak. Single 70M rope will be fine :)

The route - First pitch is only class 5 for the top part, slung boulders for anchor. After p1, scramble up class 3 rock to the obvious start. P2 goes straight up the obvious line to an anchor with two massive bolts. P3 - slightly left directly off the belay, up to a ledge with loose rock, then up a short dihedral with a triple bolt anchor on a ledge up and to the left of the top of the dihedral. From there a short easy scramble will bring you to the summit. 60m Rope is fine for rappelling, from the p2 anchor if your 60 isn't long enough you can go skiers left to a 3rd class ledge system.

Lower rappel off the route

View of Ingalls and East Ingalls from near headlight basin.

Dan Adsmond - Ingall's Peak

Rapeling the route

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