Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Leary, Joe Rousek & Tony Puppo, 1989
Page Views: 2,110 total · 10/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Dec 29, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

You got to roll me.

This exciting face climbing on this pitch may deserve the R rating ML gives it, but it can be done safely. The crux comes after the first bolt and there is a good chance of crapping out if your partner in crime is not belaying from the correct spot. It is tempting to belay from the anchors atop Return to Forever, but this will introduce enough slack into the system that decking from the crux becomes a much greater possibility. Instead, belay off gear at the top left end of the Hotcake Flake, perhaps 15' up and L of the RTF anchors. Cheating like I don't know how, it is possible to place some sus gear between the first bolt and the crux (red or gold Camalot, red or brown Tri Cam). The gear above the crux is widely spaced but the falls would be clean -- you won't see the time flashing by.

Descent: rap 100' to the top of the Hotcake Flake, then rap 50' from there to the ground using the Return to Forever anchors.

Location Suggest change

On the left side of the Santana Pillar. Approach either by climbing Hotcake Flake or an unpleasant 5.7 corner to the left of it.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts, 2 pins and some smaller gear -- sixes and sevens and nines.

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