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Routes in Tisha Spire
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East Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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North Face Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Scott Baxter, et al., 1978 |
| Page Views: | 5,133 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Tisha Spire is approached from the Midgley Bridge parking area and sits in behind (north of) Steamboat Rock (see photos). From the parking area, take the Wilson Canyon Trail to the Jim Thompson Trail turnoff, then after about five minutes on the JTT, turn uphill and gain the ridge above that is followed to Steamboat. Traverse from Steamboat over to Princess/Tisha. You have to scramble atop a large ledge running along the east side of Tisha, which takes you to the north side and the route.
P1) Climb up pretty good edges past a couple of bolts and a flake to the ledge in the middle of the north face. Belay from a static line tied around a big boulder. (it is possible to do this all in one pitch - with some rope drag).
P2) Move to the left (climber's left) and climb a nice right-facing dihedral to it's top. Move right from there, clip a single bolt, then make a tricky move down and right to gain a left-facing low-angle corner system that leads to the summit.
Descent: Rappel (a FULL 100 feet!) from chains atop pitch 2.
NOTE: In both the Toula and Bloom guides to Sedona, there is a righthand (5.6) version of this route indicated on the topo. As far as I was able to discern, this path is no longer 5.6 (if it ever was). Disregard this and go up the nice 5.8 way!
P1) Climb up pretty good edges past a couple of bolts and a flake to the ledge in the middle of the north face. Belay from a static line tied around a big boulder. (it is possible to do this all in one pitch - with some rope drag).
P2) Move to the left (climber's left) and climb a nice right-facing dihedral to it's top. Move right from there, clip a single bolt, then make a tricky move down and right to gain a left-facing low-angle corner system that leads to the summit.
Descent: Rappel (a FULL 100 feet!) from chains atop pitch 2.
NOTE: In both the Toula and Bloom guides to Sedona, there is a righthand (5.6) version of this route indicated on the topo. As far as I was able to discern, this path is no longer 5.6 (if it ever was). Disregard this and go up the nice 5.8 way!
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