Bivy preferences, 1/2 bag + parka vs quilt vs mummy bag

For winter mountaineering (northeast) thoughts? Experiences?

If you carry bivy gear, you're gonna bivy. I can't think of a single route in the Northeast that a relatively fit and competent climber can't finish in a day. The biggest routes I can think of are on Katahdin and even those don't require a bivy.

Let me elaborate, to include overnight winter hikes and camping

My personal preference for winter overnights in the Northeast is a lightweight tent (BD Firstlight, MH Direkt 2 or similar) and a bag rated 10-15 degrees above your anticipated coldest temperature. I supplement the bag with a puffy and additional clothing that I would be carrying anyway. This combination is far warmer and more adaptable to varied conditions than a bivy with any bag combination and the combined weight difference is minimal.

Just my $.02

for true winter you won't want much less than a firstlight, full down bag, and warm partner to cuddle.

if you're thinking more of spring/high alpine summer (i.e. not in the NE) the options vary a lot

honestly, you should just go out and get after it and not worry too much about what gear to buy. you'll know once you need it.

Danomcq wrote:Let me elaborate, to include overnight winter hikes and camping

I wouldn't use the same gear for all 3 pursuits. Before I really got into climbing, I spent a good deal of time backpacking/snowshoeing/peak bagging in the Catskills and the Adirondacks. Deep in the Dacks it can get BRUTALLY cold. I carried a -20 Marmot bag for those shenanigans, but I would never dream of carrying it for a bivy. On a bivy, I plan on suffering (to a degree) because I'd be suffering even more by dragging a 5lb sleeping bag up a route.

The closest thing to a real bivy I can think of in the NE would be a winter ascent of Wallface where you make the 4 hr approach the day before, bivy at the base, then climb and retreat the next day. I would probably carry a BD Firstlight and either a 20 or 0 degree bag depending on the temp forecast.

Half-bags have their place, but only in the big ranges. Not worth the hassle here.

I don't have enough experience with quilts to say one way or the other, but I can see their appeal. Maybe one day I'll pick one up.

I have acquired a MH direct 2 and have a mammut bag which claims -17 F so I should be good most of the time. And to those who say I need to just go out more, all my deploy,nets have lined up with winter climbing, so I haven't been able to get out much. I haven't been home for winter in 4 years or so. Opn top of that my youngest is 14 months and I've been home for 2 of them if that puts it in perspective

Get a regular sleeping bag (down) that is roomy enough inside to wear your other clothing in (including a down jacket.)

Marmot Lithium would be a good choice, as it's cut a bit roomier than many others.

Giving this a bump... I am thinking about a new 4 season sleeping bag. I am super curious about all of the discussion around quilts and the hybrids (Sierra Designs - Backcountry Bed). I am side/stomach sleeper, I move between both all night long. As I have looked I am most interested in the Enlightened Equipment rigs but, am curious what others are using for Alpine Climbs.

Quilts seem to be all the rage with the superlight hiking crowd, and - disclaimer - I've never used one - but I can't possibly imagine winter camping with anything less than a real sleeping bag.  My sleep is jeopardized when there's even a one inch gap around my face at night; I can't imagine being able to seal up a quilt tight enough to keep cold air from sneaking in every time I move.