Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Hodor Said Hodor
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in NE Buttress of Bridge Mountain
|
|
Dogleg Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Hodor Said Hodor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Matthew Morriss and Jack Lazar |
| Page Views: | 1,542 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Morrismc on Apr 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Red Rocks has got to be one of the few climbing areas so immediately proximal to a big urban center where a climber can still say well that crack looks cool, its not in the guide book, lets go climb it! and still discover a fun first ascent. This climb was super fun, provided adventure, thoughtful climbing, SHADE, and good views. We think this is a first ascent as we could find no other reference to it, but if someone else climbed it way back when, wed love to hear about that adventure!
Pitch 1: (The first pitch of Dogleg Crack) The pitch that climbs the vertical and then right leaning crack. Fun jams and solid face holds with good protection makes this pitch one of the most fun of the climb! Belay on a great ledge in steep corner. 40 m 5.7.
Pitch 2: Climb right facing corner just off of the ledge. Follow this crack for 20 m, avoiding the roof on right. As terrain becomes easier, move right following thin patina face climbing. Climb through single small tree wedged in crack, pull the tree! And belay on awesome ledge with great views! 35 m 5.7.
Pitch 3: Move up 10 feet from anchor and then traverse right on fun slabby moves. Follow horizontal crack right for ~40 ft until easier ground appears above. Then head straight up to large ledge with trees, passing by the first ledge with large blocks, but no trees! Keep going, its worth it. Belay at base of next cliff. 30 m 5.7.
Pitch 4: Move up from ledge to the right of three obvious cracks. Pull awkward fist crack (5.9) up onto ledge. Ledge your way up and then left at the back of the ledge, then continue on upward. Belay at large tree that was visible from the ground. 20 m 5.9.
Pitch 5. Walk back from tree to right facing corner that goes straight up. Tenuous moves on thin edges (5.8) leads to easier ground. After topping out walk back for good belay spot on HUGE ledge. 20 m 5.8.
Congratulations youve made it to the top of Hodor Said Hodor! Enjoy the ledge, keep going up and put up your own new route! Or make your way down the obvious descent gulley to the right.
Descent: Make your way down and to the right. Following the largest gully. Eventually the gully cliffs out on the right, there is a smaller gully to the left, follow this gully through thick trees. You should reach our rappel station (slung trees with biner). Rappel for 20 meters and then pass large broken tree (here it gets interesting). Move rappellers right into the gully and still further into the chimney on the right side of the gully, continue down until you find firm ground in a tight slot. Careful pulling those ropes!
Now it gets fun!
Move down the easy ground in the gully until you reach a thread through with 6mm cord and a rap ring. Rappel through chimney to terra firma! Walk around the base of the cliff to grab your gear
Pitch 1: (The first pitch of Dogleg Crack) The pitch that climbs the vertical and then right leaning crack. Fun jams and solid face holds with good protection makes this pitch one of the most fun of the climb! Belay on a great ledge in steep corner. 40 m 5.7.
Pitch 2: Climb right facing corner just off of the ledge. Follow this crack for 20 m, avoiding the roof on right. As terrain becomes easier, move right following thin patina face climbing. Climb through single small tree wedged in crack, pull the tree! And belay on awesome ledge with great views! 35 m 5.7.
Pitch 3: Move up 10 feet from anchor and then traverse right on fun slabby moves. Follow horizontal crack right for ~40 ft until easier ground appears above. Then head straight up to large ledge with trees, passing by the first ledge with large blocks, but no trees! Keep going, its worth it. Belay at base of next cliff. 30 m 5.7.
Pitch 4: Move up from ledge to the right of three obvious cracks. Pull awkward fist crack (5.9) up onto ledge. Ledge your way up and then left at the back of the ledge, then continue on upward. Belay at large tree that was visible from the ground. 20 m 5.9.
Pitch 5. Walk back from tree to right facing corner that goes straight up. Tenuous moves on thin edges (5.8) leads to easier ground. After topping out walk back for good belay spot on HUGE ledge. 20 m 5.8.
Congratulations youve made it to the top of Hodor Said Hodor! Enjoy the ledge, keep going up and put up your own new route! Or make your way down the obvious descent gulley to the right.
Descent: Make your way down and to the right. Following the largest gully. Eventually the gully cliffs out on the right, there is a smaller gully to the left, follow this gully through thick trees. You should reach our rappel station (slung trees with biner). Rappel for 20 meters and then pass large broken tree (here it gets interesting). Move rappellers right into the gully and still further into the chimney on the right side of the gully, continue down until you find firm ground in a tight slot. Careful pulling those ropes!
Now it gets fun!
Move down the easy ground in the gully until you reach a thread through with 6mm cord and a rap ring. Rappel through chimney to terra firma! Walk around the base of the cliff to grab your gear
Location
Approach: park in the Icebox Canyon parking lot and follow the main trail for anywhere to a quarter mile to half a mile. There are several trails that peel off to the left and descend to the creek. Cross the creek and choose your own adventure to approach the buttress. The first pitch is identifiable as it is behind a large white boulder. Climb up to a ledge just below the first pitch.
1 Comment