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Razor's Edge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 103 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Bill Forrest, and ??? , 1965 |
Page Views: | 16,070 total · 73/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned on Mar 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
People who climb the Razor's Edge route sometimes don't even know that's it's name. More likely than not, they'll just say they climbed The Hand. This route is synonymous with the formation and probably accounts for 98%-plus of the ascents here.
1) Climb gully, stepping up and left at it's top to gain the top of a small buttress where you'll find a fixed anchor.
2) Climb up slope on the fin clipping bolts to gain Chicken Ledge at the top (fixed anchor). Lots of climbers try to cross the last very exposed bit of Chicken Ledge by walking. Give it a go!
3) Continue up the arete of the fin, clipping the occasional bolt, to the top. A short crack move will be found at the top. You might want a medium sized cam for that.
Descent: Rappel (double rope) down the southern side of the formation back to the ground off the south face.
1) Climb gully, stepping up and left at it's top to gain the top of a small buttress where you'll find a fixed anchor.
2) Climb up slope on the fin clipping bolts to gain Chicken Ledge at the top (fixed anchor). Lots of climbers try to cross the last very exposed bit of Chicken Ledge by walking. Give it a go!
3) Continue up the arete of the fin, clipping the occasional bolt, to the top. A short crack move will be found at the top. You might want a medium sized cam for that.
Descent: Rappel (double rope) down the southern side of the formation back to the ground off the south face.
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