Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | John Lawrence, Dave Mashburn (1967) |
Page Views: | 11,103 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007 |
Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
A Table Rock classic that roasts in the sun on the south face. The bombay chimney on the last pitch is a delightful squirm.
This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock.
Start: Beneath the obvious corner system. There is often a cheater stack at the base to help folks through the hard first move.
P1: Make a hard high step (perhaps the crux of the route), then wander up the crack in the corner to below the big roof (older anchor below roof). Exit right (5.7) through steep ground on good holds and belay above. NOTE: If you don't want to bring big cams (4" or so) to belay in the main crack, there is a stance up and right on a block. The pro for this second anchor is good but tricky to find.) EDIT: Apparently there are bolts here now. Who knows how long they will last.
P2: Move up the widening crack. Navigate a bulge (great hand jams in the back) and pull into an alcove atop a chockstone in the chimney (possible belay). Squirm up the chimney above.
This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock.
Start: Beneath the obvious corner system. There is often a cheater stack at the base to help folks through the hard first move.
P1: Make a hard high step (perhaps the crux of the route), then wander up the crack in the corner to below the big roof (older anchor below roof). Exit right (5.7) through steep ground on good holds and belay above. NOTE: If you don't want to bring big cams (4" or so) to belay in the main crack, there is a stance up and right on a block. The pro for this second anchor is good but tricky to find.) EDIT: Apparently there are bolts here now. Who knows how long they will last.
P2: Move up the widening crack. Navigate a bulge (great hand jams in the back) and pull into an alcove atop a chockstone in the chimney (possible belay). Squirm up the chimney above.
Location
This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock. It is visible from the parking lot.
Approach by hiking the TR summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Go ~200 feet along the East face trail, then look for a small trail heading uphill. Follow this small trail for ~100 yards.
The climb starts below the obvious corner. Look for a cheater stack that often helps folks through the challenging first move.
Approach by hiking the TR summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Go ~200 feet along the East face trail, then look for a small trail heading uphill. Follow this small trail for ~100 yards.
The climb starts below the obvious corner. Look for a cheater stack that often helps folks through the challenging first move.
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