What's most important to you as a climber when climbing indoors?

Good setting, adequate wall space, good/clean training facilities, good tunes, rugrat containment, good staff. in that order.

intermediate climber

I just like they way they grade their routes. I can crush 11b indoors while getting crushed by 5.8 at JTree. This way I can be a legend in my own mind.

It's time filler until the rock dries after winter.

I could do without the odd route setting, i've noticed a trend in some of the different gyms in Québec, Lead-Bouldering routes... Good staff in some, indoor elitism in others.

Locker wrote:"Cost $16-18 a day is robbery" Totally ignorant on this one. Is the above about right for a days jaunt at a climbing gym?

In the Boston metro area it is.

I only use the gym to help transition me from ice season to rock season. I hate the fucking gym and everything that comes with it tbh also. On the other hand i am grateful for it being any good outdoor climbing is at least 2 hours from me. I like to climb 4 days a week so add to the drive partner finding and it just makes sense to use the gym this time of year. It is a great tool to gain fitness so when the rock dries and the season is in full swing i am already in tip top shape and i don't have to spend 4-6 weeks climbing into shape..

I guess i could boulder at a gym for $9 or something but i really can only do so much bouldering tbh before i hurt something and then cant climb..

Just renewed my yearly membership last night, $300 (anniversary sale pricing...works great since my renenwal is always during the anniversary). Probaly put in 80 days in the gym last year, call it $4/visit. The day use rate shouldn't really be an issue for any climber who is really training (who will be on annual or monthly, at much less than the day pass rate).

Locker wrote:At some climbing gym I think for my wife, son and myself it was approx. $60.00 monthly. But that was some time back. Even $9.00 a pop is wayyyy too much in my opinion, for ONE day. But I'm a cheap fuck. So what the hell do I know...

I think $12-15 per day pass is pretty standard in our area. Sucks, but there it is. I would like to get a membership somewhere, but am torn between two gyms at the moment: one for its incredibly close proximity and one for its height.

Solution: punch passes. I am not married to one gym/climbing style, and I save an average $2 per visit. It'll have to work until the out of doors is consistently dry and warm enough.

I believe the new huge gym opening in NYC, The Cliffs, will be charging $25 for a day pass...At least they will have a 60 foot lead wall.

Logan Schiff wrote:I believe the new huge gym opening in NYC, The Cliffs, will be charging $25 for a day pass

Ha, good luck with that one.

20 kN wrote: Ha, good luck with that one.

Umm, have you ever been to New York City? A beer is like 8 bucks - people still drink plenty of beer there.

To be honest, I'm surprised there aren't more climbing centres in NYC. If there ever are, it may help control the pricing. If not, the daily cost will go up in a year or two.

I guess NYC is different than London, but we have so many climbing/bouldering gyms here that I've lost count. Must be over 10 in a 50 mile radius and all the ones I've been to are very good.

I pay £399 for an annual pass in London, plus another 100 a year for a locker to keep my rope and stuff. It's not cheap living in a big city. That's why you get paid more than you do to live in a tiny town.

$25 in NYC will work just fine. Most places run $12-$18 for daypass on the west coast adn the lowest I've seen in the last few years was like $8 for bouldering only with entry before noon. Punch cards are decent, although usually only save about 20% over day pass and some of them actually expire.

I typically buy a 10punch for one of the other local gyms (in addition to my membership in the other one), for variety of setting and problems when bouldering and for the auto belays during PE phases. $10/visit, no expiration, works ok for me.

Will S wrote:Just renewed my yearly membership last night, $300 (anniversary sale pricing...works great since my renenwal is always during the anniversary). Probaly put in 80 days in the gym last year, call it $4/visit. The day use rate shouldn't really be an issue for any climber who is really training (who will be on annual or monthly, at much less than the day pass rate).

Wow, $25/month for a climbing gym membership is super cheap. My wife and I currently pay $75/month for a couple's membership. I think we were paying about $120 for the same thing at out in the Bay Area (though it was a MUCH larger gym and had a large non-climbing weight/treadmill area).

Will S wrote:$25 in NYC will work just fine. Most places run $12-$18 for daypass on the west coast adn the lowest I've seen in the last few years was like $8 for bouldering only with entry before noon. Punch cards are decent, although usually only save about 20% over day pass and some of them actually expire. I typically buy a 10punch for one of the other local gyms (in addition to my membership in the other one), for variety of setting and problems when bouldering and for the auto belays during PE phases. $10/visit, no expiration, works ok for me.

Was just looking at gym rates as I prepare to re-locate. currently I'm paying for a gym in a fitness club, tennis courts, weight machines, lap pools ets. because its the only gym near me, but I could afford a membership at both a bouldering gym and a big ropes gym for about 10 more dollars in a lot of places. seriously considering this idea, but i like the punch card thought.

Locker wrote:At some climbing gym I think for my wife, son and myself it was approx. $60.00 monthly. But that was some time back. Even $9.00 a pop is wayyyy too much in my opinion, for ONE day. But I'm a cheap fuck. So what the hell do I know...

True that...so expensive!!!

Ryan Williams wrote: To be honest, I'm surprised there aren't more climbing centres in NYC. If there ever are, it may help control the pricing.

just chiming in... Cost per square foot in NYC is a big factor.

Ian Stewart wrote: 5.13+ is definitely not 'moderate'. Go find some threads where people are asking for moderate route suggestions. You won't find 5.13+ mentioned anywhere. We're talking about public climbing gyms here, where your skill level is relative to the general public. Compared to pro climbers you may be 'moderate', but compared to the general public you are far from that. Many gyms barely even venture into 5.13 territory because the number of people climbing that level is so low. Just because Ryan sandbagged his skill level doesn't mean you need to. Ryan climbs 14+ and is a La Sportiva Regional climber. Again, maybe only 'advanced' when compared to other pro climbers, but in this context there's no denying that he's 'open'. To you. To most people, they are very hard.

Actually, I'm well aware of Ryan's accomplishments. In my personal opinion 5.14 sport climbing and v-double digits are advanced. The upper tier (i.e. Ondra, Sharma, Woods, Nicole, etc.) are elite. It is more than fine to me that we have a different viewpoint on what elite or advanced or moderate or easy means. That was my whole point in asking the OP to provide some guidelines. That way we could have usable metrics to make this discussion worthwhile.

For the record, I considered myself an intermediate climber (and posted as such) before I knew Ryan posted as advanced. Both gyms I have climbed at in the last year (one in Indiana, one in California) regularly set routes and boulders that are in my project range. I frequently get out climbed at both. I am a better outdoor climber than indoor though!

5.13+ and v9 are hard for me; they just aren't hard in a global context. I have to work damn hard to send these grades. That doesn't mean I'm an advanced climber, it actually means that I have a long way to go to get there.

Finally, I respect your opinion. I understand that you let your skill level and peer group influence how you feel about what is hard, moderate, or easy. Your context just doesn't work for my peer group or personal climbing skill level. Sorry to ruffle your feathers, and I sincerely hope that you understand that I'm not trying to look down on anyone. Again, my whole point was that grade ranges would make it so we were all talking the same language instead of wildly different interpretations of the terms.

Thanks again everyone for your input!

With regards to grades & ability... To put things in perspective, back in the '70's early '80's "advanced" climbers were climbing ~5.10/5.11. As the sport progresses and evolves, the concept of what is an "advanced" climber compared to an "intermediate" climber will change.

Consider also experience, a climber could be naturally talented and be climbing 5.12 virtually overnight. But does she have the experience? Has she climbed enough varied terrain that she is capable of climbing any 5.12 or just a select style?

Back to the indoor climbing experience...

There are some gyms that deliberately make the grading obscure such as The Spot in Boulder. I personally prefer Yosemite & Hueco ratings close to the outdoors so that I can properly gauge where I'm at when I do get that rare moment and can actually get outdoors!

What's important to me is the following:
Variety of grades & terrain (I'm worthless on overhanging stuff!)
Height, a 20ft lead does absolutely nothing for me.
Route turnover. If I wanted the same route month after month I'd go down in my friend's basement where he never changes the routes!
Culture - Positive, energetic, variety of tunes to match the mood at the time, with an occasional ZOT! but not too much!
Finally - a nice shady tree out back where I can put my barking dog & drooling kids on a leash out of everyone's way! (just kidding, I have sunscreen!)

Almost forgot! Auto Belays! When you've dropped as many partners as I have over the years, you tend to climb solo a lot!

On a good day I can lead a 12a but I'm mostly 5.11-ish. I've been climbing for over 15 years and consider myself relatively experienced but by no means a master. :D

I can't believe that height isnt mentioned more. Maybe its the fact that people take it forgranted in their gym, but damn. After living and climbing in Denver for 6 years and then moving to Houston, the 20 foot excuse for a gym here is a sad replacement for R&J. Literally 3 clips to the anchors. Granted it is a 'birthday party' factory where 80% of their patronage is renting and will come maybe twice a year, so I understand where management's minds are, but it sucks as a regular climber.

That and consistent route turnover. It seems to be the policy to have MASSIVE routesetting pushes where they will try to turn over the entire gym in like 2 weeks, and then let it stagnate for months. My motivation to come in and climb the same damn 10 routes is seriously lacking by month 3.

Phill T wrote: After living and climbing in Denver for 6 years and then moving to Houston, the 20 foot excuse for a gym here is a sad replacement for R&J. Literally 3 clips to the anchors. Granted it is a 'birthday party' factory.

Haha, I lived in Houston for 10 years and its probably the same place-off I-10 on the west side? I freakin hate that city. Have no fear you can drive to the climbing gym in Austin for a change of pace. You would be hard pressed to find a worst place to live as a climber, maybe Louisiana.

Drytool...

RobC2 wrote:Drytool...

LOL! I don't think even Donald Trump could get insurance for it!