Five Ten stonelands

immo,

i find that the stonelands lace fit a bit more snug than a similar sized anasazi. the lace-up will not stretch much at all being that its a lined synthetic, similar to all anasazi except moccasym ( unlined leather uppers), and anasazi high top (lined leather).

i wear a size 12 street shoe, 11.5 in verde, 12 in stonelands lace.

i like my shoes snug, but not painful, and because i like to jam cracks and climb long routes, i stay away from crapped, knuckled toes for the shoes that i use for cracks and face.

i'm not sure how tight you need your shoes to be, or what your measured foot size ( street shoe size), but please take into account that the shoes in question will not stretch out much, and that from my experience, the street shoe size was a great, no-slop secure fit. ideal for all-day climbs, long technical pitches, and the shape of the toe box helps to keep toes flat for jamming prowess and comfort.

hope this helps, and happy sending in SA!

Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

Thats exactly what I needed to hear. Size UK9 it is!

Immo

Why does Charles Cole think he's being so revolutionary? John Bachar made soft lace-ups and stiff(isn) slippers for years with Acopa. Scarpa and La Sportiva have also had soft lace ups and stiffer velcro and slipper options. The Pres. states that "no one has offered a line like this before" but to me it seems like it's Five Ten that has been backwards for so many years, not the entire industry.

Anyways, I know plenty of people love the Mocasym for cracks and all day trad but for me they are too soft. I need something more supportive for crack climbing. But being able to take the shoes off easily at belays is nice - so I welcome the change. I just don't think it's some big advancement.

I think Five Ten has screwed up their line the last few years by trying to offer so many different shoes that all seem very similar. They should stick to 5-10 models - you can cover the entire range of what people want/need with that many models.

Ryan Williams wrote:Why does Charles Cole think he's being so revolutionary? John Bachar made soft lace-ups and stiff(isn) slippers for years with Acopa. Scarpa and La Sportiva have also had soft lace ups and stiffer velcro and slipper options. The Pres. states that "no one has offered a line like this before" but to me it seems like it's Five Ten that has been backwards for so many years, not the entire industry. Anyways, I know plenty of people love the Mocasym for cracks and all day trad but for me they are too soft. I need something more supportive for crack climbing. But being able to take the shoes off easily at belays is nice - so I welcome the change. I just don't think it's some big advancement. I think Five Ten has screwed up their line the last few years by trying to offer so many different shoes that all seem very similar. They should stick to 5-10 models - you can cover the entire range of what people want/need with that many models.

Hey Ryan, did you ever settle on a good shoe to replace the Acopas?

I think you were looking for something to replace the Aztecs and the Merlins?

Thanks Stealthy

I've been wearing a pair of the Stonelands VCS for a few weeks now and so far I have been quite impressed with them. I usually wear Miura laces or velcro but picked these up as a more comfortable option for long routes. I've mainly been climbing indoors up to 5.12 in them but I also took them bouldering at Rumbling Bald intending to just use them for warm ups before breaking out the tight fitting "big guns", I ended up wearing them all day long. I pulled out my Miura's once but put them back in my bag again after one attempt.

I found the VCS to be fairly soft compared to the Anasazi or Miura last, outside edging is superb but the inside is pretty poor and tends to roll off even moderately small edges. Smearing on the other hand is excellent, there's tons of surface contact with the rock thanks to the flat toebox and the soft rubber moulds to any dimple/protrusion.

The Anasazi heel doesn't fit my foot shape AT ALL, the Stonelands' is better but still not perfect, there's some deadspace along the underside for me, in action it feels pretty solid and secure though.

I picked up the Stonelands in a size 8, the same as my street shoe and they are a snug but comfortable fit. I normally wear a 7 in Anasazi's for reference.

I would highly recommend the Stonelands VCS for slabby to vertical face climbing and long multi-pitch routes, comfort is definitely the name of the game here but it is still a solid performer on anything less than overhanging terrain.

I wear a size 8 street shoe. I tried two pair of VCS on last night in a size 7 and 7.5. I agree that the heel deadspace was less than my moccasyms but still there was some. Also it felt as though my heel just wanted to pop out. On the wall the edged great and I really liked the stiffness. However I felt the smearing was terrible- much worse than my TC Pros.. I don't know why I just can't find 5.10s that work well for me, bc I really want them to. Think I'm going to have to pass on these for some Muira laces.

tks wrote: Hey Ryan, did you ever settle on a good shoe to replace the Acopas? I think you were looking for something to replace the Aztecs and the Merlins?

Right now I'm bouldering and sport climbing in the Ra from Tenaya. Awesome shoes. Will probably continue to try Tenaya in different models. They are different than the Merlin though, as they are a bit narrower and a bit stiffer. Nearly too narrow for me, as are most Euro made shoes. They are also lined so they only stretch a quarter of a size or so, while the Merlin stretched so much that it became a different shoe after a few months.

That said, I still have a pair of new Merlins that I have not yet worn. I bought them smaller than my first pair, so I'm curious to see how they climb after they have broken in enough to not be painful.

I have a few different sizes of Five Ten Galileos that I use, depending on what kind of climbing I'm doing. I liked the Aztecs because of the sticky rubber, but the Galileo has always fit be better than pretty much every other shoe in the world. They are still my best all around shoe.

So I have a pair of 5.10 Anasazi VCS that are 8.5 and now that they have stretched out a bit, are perfect for face, sport, and gym climbing. I also have an old pair of 5.10 Asym's that are size 9 and are perfect trad shoes for smearing on slab or jamming crack.

I got the Stonelands VCS in size 8.5 thinking that they would stretch and they do some . . . just not enough. If you size the Stonelands like the Anasazi, they will climb and feel like Anasazi. I ordered them in size 9 and they fit perfect. Just fyi for anyone who is looking to get a pair of these.

Preston, what's your street shoe size? Do you like the shoes?

Jim

Ben Hicks wrote:OK, Thanks, I'll have to get a firsthand look at them. More sole is a good thing in my book as my first pair of supermoccs blew out on the bottom of the sole under the big toe with only a couple thousand feet of crack climbing. And, I am no thrasher, I have good footwork. The rands still looked completely new and the edges had minimal wear. I thought it was pretty stupid design that the sole thickness under the toe was 1 mm or less. Agree, flat toes are way better for crack!

The same thing just happened to my Supermoccs. The edges and rand have almost no wear, but the sole has blown through... I think I'll resole them with a beefier half sole. 5.10 told me they would warranty the shoes, but they would not return them to me. Maybe it'd be worth trading them in for the Stoneland slipper.