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Regular NW face of HD this fall...

Original Post
Jon C. Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 30

So... I like to believe Im strong (some 5.11 on gear but will onsight any 5.10 on gear. Eldo, IC, the Voo etc.) but I have no big wall experience but am familiar with some rope systems from SAR and AMGA (I'm an SPI). I am seeking any advice to help myself and a partner get up this route this fall, maybe in a day if we fix the first 3 or so pitches to jug? I don't know. Tell me what you know or think. I don't need any of that oh so familiar MP slander or general sass that seems to be just to common anymore. All help and input is greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Juan S.

BenCooper · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 585

Jon,
If you're climbing 5.10-5.11, and your partner can at least climb solid 5.9, you'll be just fine doing it in a day. No real need to fix. There are all sorts of beta on the web for doing HDIAD, and there are many methods that will work equally well. Biggest challenge is going to be endurance. Take care of that, and you'll crush! Have fun.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

This is all you need.

supertopo.com/tr/Regular-NW…

David Gealy · · Berkeley, California · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

It's a long free climb with very brief sections of aid. If you stay in that mentality you'll cruise. We treated it like an aid climb and paid the price. Sounds like you're plenty strong - I'd recommend sleeping at the base. The death slabs can really take it out of you.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

In fall the real crux will be the lack of water. yer gonna die of thirst.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

A couple of thoughts:

I did this last year in the first week of Sept. I consider myself a 5.9/10- minus trad climber, meaning that I can generally onsight any climb of any style in those grades. My partner was much stronger, clocking in at more like 10+/11- for the same criteria. We have both done a fair number of long rock and alpine rock climbs, although this was the longest. Despite that, I have been living in an area that is not exactly conducive to long routes or long approaches, and I feel I was under trained for this route. We treated this as a french free (most) and aid (for the harder pitches) route and took 2 days. The second jugged with a pack, and we spent the night on Big Sandy.

The length and exposure/intimidation decreased my onsight climbing ability! I thought the climbing was harder than expected despite getting on several shorter climbs in the Valley that were similar or harder in difficulty. I pulled on a lot of gear where I might not have normally done so. Luckily there is a lot of fixed gear.

Endurance is more important than climbing ability. The approach is long, the climb is long, and the decent is long.

Speed is more important than how hard you can climb. You need to be able to knock out these pitches quickly.

Fixing is a great idea.

The spring was running, but we didn't know that so we carried a lot of water to the base.

The approach was HOT, but it was very cool on the climb itself. We went through less water than expected.

Get after it! If you have the fitness to do it IAD you will enjoy it much more than if you treated this like an aid climb and spent the night.

Jon C. Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 30

Thanks friends for your helpful responses. I am, all of a sudden, totally buzzing from this climb! It was an impulsive idea to meet in the valley in Sept. then head to the creek followed by the Tetons for a total of like 4 road weeks and we were both like "Half Dome, in a day? hell yes we can". So I shall begin prepping.

Robbie Brown · · the road · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 465

Take the death slabs for the approach, do it in a day, fix 3 pitches, and go fast and light! You got it dog! My first time aid climbing was on the NW face of HD.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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