What's most important to you as a climber when climbing indoors?

Howdy!

I've noticed over the years that the number of indoor climbers is increasing.

I'm curious about the indoor climber and thought I'd ask the community.

If you could also let me know what's your hardest send grade it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Climb On!

Advanced: Beanie, no shirt, surly entitled gaze, squeal like Ondra when failing.

vimeo.com/35036855

Advanced climber. Most important to me is it has a roof and is open when the weather isn't nice enough to get outside.

Intermediate-Advanced. A good facility for training, non-monotonous route quality/quantity.

hawt yung chicas in those recalled ultrasheer luluz ;)

Intermediate - I like the option of auto-belays as I can get in some quick roped climbing at lunch, even when none of my regular partners can.

Also, frequently changed routes.

Last one, good ventilation to prevent "white lung."

Advanced.

Good holds. Large % of gym > 90 degrees. Children segregated into kiddy-play-hell (preferably sound proof room). Hangboard. Training area a plus, but not needed. Rock n Roller a huge plus. Sportsbra clad ladies are always welcome.

Intermediate-Advanced

A variety of angles of walls (with a lot of overhangs, but a slab is nice too), comfortable + textured holds (i.e. not old, greasy and glassy), constant turnover of routes and problems (if I can get one new project a week, then we're in business!), lead-only sections of the wall, good route-setting with somewhat consistent grades (though 'quality' is subjective, there are still classic climbs and POS's and the goal of route setting is to try to set one classic climb after another), a campus board, and experienced staff. Cracks are nice, especially if it's possible to have several cracks of varying widths/difficulty.

Backing up a bit, I like to think that there are two kinds of gyms: climbing gyms and climber's gyms. The former is for hosting swarms of screaming kids who are too young and uninformed to know just how hard the place sucks; the latter is a facility for die-hard climbers to train after a day of work, replenish psyche after a humbling trip outdoors, and meet new partners who want to get outside. Everything I recommended is for a climber's gym. If you want a climbing gym, do the opposite of everything I recommend in an effort to reduce costs, and then embrace the tragic, self-fulfilling prophecy whereby you justify your decadent shack by saying most of your money comes from kids' birthday parties anyways.

^^ well put. Do weight lifting gyms have kids running around willy-nily? No, then why are most climbing gyms glorified playgrounds?

Mike Crandall wrote:Howdy! I've noticed over the years that the number of indoor climbers is increasing. I'm curious about the indoor climber and thought I'd ask the community. If you could also let me know what level climber you are that would be greatly appreciated. - New/Beginner - Intermediate - Advanced - Elite/Competitor Thanks! Climb On!

I'll call myself intermediate (5.13+ and v9,) but your suggestions for skill levels are very open to interpretation. Frankly, attaching some grade ranges will actually make your own life a little easier when you're looking at suggestions.

Route and problem quality and density is my major consideration when choosing a gym. A close second is the quality of the landing surface in the bouldering area followed by plenty of differing wall angles. Very little vert space, ideally. Quiet music is a plus as I value my hearing. I like a good training area, especially with a system board. I'll sacrifice that first though.

RE: Jason Todd

Thanks! I love that vid too! Hilarious!

shotwell wrote: I'll call myself intermediate (5.13+ and v9,) but your suggestions for skill levels are very open to interpretation. Frankly, attaching some grade ranges will actually make your own life a little easier when you're looking at suggestions. Route and problem quality and density is my major consideration when choosing a gym. A close second is the quality of the landing surface in the bouldering area followed by plenty of differing wall angles. Very little vert space, ideally. Quiet music is a plus as I value my hearing. I like a good training area, especially with a system board. I'll sacrifice that first though.

Thanks shotwell! I left the "level" open but probably should have just put, "What's your hardest send?"

shotwell wrote: Route and problem quality and density is my major consideration when choosing a gym. A close second is the quality of the landing surface in the bouldering area followed by plenty of differing wall angles. Very little vert space, ideally. Quiet music is a plus as I value my hearing. I like a good training area, especially with a system board. I'll sacrifice that first though.

Everything he said, except that I would say that campus/systems training is worthless to me. It's very frustrating when gyms spend money on building fancy things when what they really need is to hire more and better setters or make landings non-terrifying.

Yoga pants.

Most important thing? A gym that actually knows how to set. It seems like there are less than ten of those in the United States. Most sets at most gyms are complete shit.

shotwell wrote:I'll call myself intermediate (5.13+ and v9,) but your suggestions for skill levels are very open to interpretation.

I'd be willing to bet that you're the only person who would consider 13+ or v9 to be "intermediate", especially with respect to climbing gyms.

Unless you live in boulder, where everybody climbs 12, I'd guess most gyms would use something like this:
Beginner: Up to easy 10
Intermediate: Mid 10 to mid 11
Advanced: Hard 11 to mid 12
Open: Hard 12 and up.

Proximity to my apartment. I can't get excited enough about indoor climbing to travel for it.

11a sport, 8 trad: route consistency and variety, leadability of routes, ventilation, air quality, friendliness of staff.

I want women! I want sleek friendly climbing girls who don't have an attitude about them and who might even be looking for an outdoor climbing partner sometime. A nice social setting is best, snotty attitude is the worst element in a gym.

Indoor climbing is neither.

Just felt like I had to say that.