Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Not I
Page Views: 1,923 total · 14/month
Shared By: Detrick S on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

If you're dying for a gnarly squeeze on some rough sandstone, this is your crack! One etched tally on the first chockstone is all the evidence of an ascent from who knows how long ago.

P1 (not that it requires a rope): this starts relatively tame (16") with surprisingly solid holds, but then as the first chockstone is neared, it shrinks down to 8". If it weren't for the chossy sandstone as it widens near the top chockstones, this route would receive another star, but as such, the jamming felt a little insecure up there.

P2: this is mostly 3rd class scrambling with one easy 5th move up another small crack that takes you to the top.

Location Suggest change

On the South side of SW Fin #2 lies a recessed, subtly flaring squeeze chimney with three visible chockstones about 30 feet up. On its East face lies a vertical, green stripe of lichen with yellow stripes on each side of it. The route I took (with a 29" waist) was on the inner side of the first chockstone, but for you wider folk, an exposed variation nearer the outside looks doable.

Protection Suggest change

A thick T-shirt and some tough pants. One could perhaps sling those chockstones, but why bother?

Photos

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