All Locations > Connecticut > Eastern Coastal… > Chatfield Hollow Main…

Psycho J

Name: Psycho J
Rating: 2.9

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anarchist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cold Vein, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Crooked Stilo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Don't do it Hank's way T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Fear The Wolf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gneiss Face T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Jolt or Not to Bolt (aka Noriega) T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Kiddy Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Kiddy Slab T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Kilometer Variation V4 6B
	Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Psycho J S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Shapegeist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Sleep Walker, The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Steep Steps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Summer V5 6C
	Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Super Vivid V5 6C
	Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	TR: Bill Lutkis. FFA: Shylo
Page Views:	3,388 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Echoinfi on Sep 25, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Start by soloing up the obvious easy corner in the middle of the "Psycho Jap" wall. Stick clip the first bolt and boulder on to the start under the low roof to reach a huge jug. The initial start is much harder if you are short. From the huge jug just over the low roof launch into a finger intensive boulder problem into big holds again. From the big holds in the middle go to the last bolt. From here either go right and top out on jugs and walk around to the anchor (easy) or launch left and commit to a difficult topout boulder problem right near the anchor. Don't worry your protection is at or just below your feet and the fall is safe.

Video:
youtube.com/watch?v=ncqFNgC…

Location

This climb goes up the center of the psycho jap wall to climbers left of the Z-crack. It was horribly sandy, dirty, and neglected. Now it has been cleaned, rediscovered, and climbed more frequently to be enjoyed again.