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Female Speed Record on The Nose of El Capitan

Original Post
Slade Bradbury · · Gunnison · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 200
Jes and Quinn after their Record Breaking speed ascent of The Nose
On June 10, 2012, Jes Meiris & Quinn Brett set off to have another day on The Nose of the great El Capitan.  Although they weren’t actually going for the women's speed record that day, they unexpectedly achieved a time of 10 hours 19 minutes - 21 minutes ahead of the previous record.  Mission Accomplished!!

In September 2011, Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga climbed the route in 10:40, knocking off an impressive 95 minutes from the 12:15 record set by Heidi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum in 2004.  Before that, Vera Wong and Abby Watkins clocked in at 16:30 in 1994. This trend will continue as women continue to push the limits and challenge each previous record; Jes and Quinn hope that other women will be nipping on their heels to strive for better times. Though they admit that there is a selfish component to climbing and breaking records, they also see themselves as a part of an evolution in how women climb. 

“There is a bigger picture to all this” Jes says, “and the objective to this ascent was to transform how climbers view their goals so that regardless of the outcome of the adventure, the effort stands for something bigger”. Their conviction led them to raise funds for SOS Outreach International, a non-profit based in Avon CO, that empowers youth through outdoor education and adventure.  This speed ascent was a great opportunity for Jes and Quinn to lead by example. Quinn says: "Our hope is to inspire others who are pushing the limits of the sport to generate fundraising efforts and make their ascents count towards local or global progression, whether it be social, environmental, or educational".
These two dedicated and talented women are walking the walk and inspiring through action.  To date, they have raised over $600 for SOS through slideshows and community outreach. 

Jes lives in Colorado Springs, Colorado and works as a professional adventure guide. When she’s not guiding, coaching youth climbing teams or wearing her climbing instructor hat, she is out building or maintaining trails as a senior filed staff member for Rocky Mountain Field Institute. RMFI works HARD and is committed to trail building and ecological restoration in key natural areas. Quinn lives in Estes Park and is busy generating a strong momentum for her new climbing-yoga company, Dovetail Mountain Endeavors. As a guide and an educator Quinn stays connected to outdoor education and personal growth and development.
 
For more information or to contact Jes and Quinn, visit climbforacause.webs.com
Craig Randleman · · Bend, Or · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 290

TEAM QJ: mmmm, beautiful girls, great attitude, tougher than shit. Wow!

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

Cool stuff. Great to see two strong ladies out there pushing the limits!

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

I was afraid I was going to read another post by Eleanor.....with her holding the record. Great job by Jes and Quinn! El Cap has become a sprint these days....Olympic quality times going down.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Nice job you two!

MTN MIA · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 405

Such amazing female climbers!!!! I can't even imagine that speed. When I did the Nose it took me 4 1/2 days. And I worked my ass off....... Wow those two are an inspiration.

Abby Watkins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I LOVE seeing this record beaten. Fantastic job Jess and Quinn, just a day out climbing really and yet such important role models and pioneers.

All the best!

Abby Watkins

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

The record did not last long, Chantel and Mayan went 7:26.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888
Ed · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1

Shortly after the sun crested Half Dome this morning (October 28), two of Yosemite Valley’s fastest women started up the Yosemite Grand Prix - the Nose of El Capitan. Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat hit the stop watch at 7:18 a.m. and charged up the granite big-wall.

The pair climbed the 3,000-foot route in two blocks with Sauter leading the first half to Boot Flake and Smith-Gobat taking the reins to the summit. Though they had planned to take a “practice” run, the women climbed quickly and shaved over half an hour from their September 2013 record. A loud cheer broke out in the meadow below when Sauter snagged the tree, joining Smith-Gobat at the summit in a mere 5 hours and 2 minutes - a new women's speed record on the Nose.

rockandice.com/lates-news/l…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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