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Crack and heel hook alternatives to Miura VS - Shoe suggestions

Original Post
bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Okay, so I recently got the Miura VS which is just fabulous and has lifted my climbing by a grade or may be even 2. But here's my difficulty. I climb mostly in the gym and am finding it difficult to pull off a few boulder moves as well as using the Miura VS on some cracks. I cant seem to smear or heel hook as well as my old Tarantula which is strange. Should I get another shoe for this? Or should I be able to pull this off on my Miura VS (I know you can do them all but it seems so much harder).

Any suggestion on what might be a good second shoe to be used in the gym? I am thinking that this might also be a good way to preserve my Miura VS longer as well.

FWIW, I climb 5.10c/d and a few 5.11s.

Taylor Lais · · Black Hills, SD · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 70

Miura VS's are not crack shoes. Jamming in them sucks. If you want crack shoes, get some trusty moccs or consider the new fiveten stonelands. Check out this thread:
mountainproject.com/v/five-…

bazinga · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks Taylor. Cracks aren't the only concern though. I like those shoes. Will check them out but they're fairly pricey considering I am only looking out for a second pair.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

Two purposes, two shoes. If you want to edge and heelhook, you'll have a tight aggressive shoe and your toes will be curled. If you want to crack climb, you will have a snug, but flat-last shoe with a thinner toe profile, definitely not curled. Compromises that accomplish two polar opposites (well) are not likely...

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I managed to get one shoe to do both. the Blanco from five ten in my street shoe size. I crank the laces in and its my go to shoe for hard sport and some less steep bouldering. I let the laces out for crack. I climb super steep stuff in the Muira VS for the support of a stiffer sole and a shape that fits my feet really well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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