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S Dakota
> Needles Of Rush…
> Mt Rushmore Nat…
> Mt Baldy
> Camp Judson Rd
> Sanitarium
Superfly
V5 YDS 6C Font
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Sanitarium
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Anger Management T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Commitment Issues V0 4 |
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Helen Keller's Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Isolated Recovery T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Pad No Problem V2 5+ PG13 |
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Split Personality T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Superfly V5 6C |
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Through The Rabbit Hole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wind Below, The V2 5+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Michael Madsen and Willy Thoen |
| Page Views: | 730 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Wilson On The Drums on Apr 5, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
If 4on6 and Seul Avec Dieu got together and had a baby it's name would be Superfly. This route is a blast and with more traffic will gain reputation as being a classic. Stand start with right had on a pinch and left foot on good edge. Stand up and get left hand high (as seen in photo). Now for the crux sequence. Pull off an insane left foot high step (circled in photo) and smear and pull (on nothing). Get your right foot on a good edge (underlined in photo) and reestablish your hand on tiny crystals. Now if you're tall you'll be able to hit the horn from here (also circled in photo), but if your 5'8'' like me your gonn have to work out some beta very similar to 4on6 to hit the horn. For me it was a very insecure smear with my left foot. Once you hit the horn get your head together, point your nose up, and head for the top.
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