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Bad anchors

mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105

It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
mr. mango wrote:It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.
That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.
Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237

Here's a nice one:

sketch-tastic

Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too
climbinglife.com/beta/tech-…

mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105
kennoyce wrote: That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.
Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
mr. mango wrote: Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.
Those ARE chains, they just happen to be longer chain links than you're used to. Those anchors are rated to 27kN: raumerclimbing.com/eng/prod…

I'm disappointed with how bomber most of the anchors are in this thread...
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
Kenan wrote:Here's a nice one: Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too climbinglife.com/beta/tech-…
OK, that's a bad anchor. As if rusty pitons don't scare me enough, that whole anchor is rigged such that the failure of any piece will result in the failure of the entire system. It would have taken zero extra effort and gear to make that anchor much, much, much safer.
Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

I'll add some:

Bomber!

Rap anchor on the Petit Grepon, 2008
Two ancient pins back up by two frayed knots in the crack. Ugh.

Totally Bomber!
Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh.

Canyoneers are crazy. Old single bolt or drilled pin rap anchors in sandstone are de rigor in the canyons of the Colorado Plateau. Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.

Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237
Andy Novak wrote:Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. Ugghhhhh
Wow, takes the term 'sandbagged' to a whole new level, eh?
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I will vouch for the sand trap being a stupid thing that will hold body weight. by no means would i start praising its virtues but it works. also the Christmas present Deadman is pretty effective and terrifying anchor... but hey I am no canyoneer

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10
MIYG wrote:
That is the reason I carry nuts with me :p
Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Andy Novak wrote: Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.
Well they aren't planning on holding falls with their anchors...
Gwut · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80




michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120

The nylon on nylon action in that one isn't optimal, but the thread looks solid enough.

Dan Allard · · West Chester, PA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,070

came across these today and made me think of this thread

thailandrocks.com/safety.htm

Jesse Morehouse · · CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 1,975
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Austin Baird wrote:Climbers might look at these ethics and think they're stupid, but it's really no different than a sport climber thinking that trad climbing is unsafe\idiotic\etc. Once you're more comfortable with canyoneering, you don't even think twice about things like this.
Well, as a climber who's dabbled in canyoneering, I still think some of the anchoring is silly. And, it is slightly different than comparing sport v trad climbing. One of the differences is, at the base of a climbing route, you look up, and, can decide if its for you or not on that day. Once you rap into a canyon, you're pretty committed.

I'm fairly comfortable canyoneering, and, I think twice about things like this a fair bit. Still a fairly warm topic of debate.
mr. mango · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 105
Wow
wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10
Dan Allard wrote:came across these today and made me think of this thread thailandrocks.com/safety.htm
What the hell.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

LOL!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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