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Rappel to routes on El Cap?

Original Post
coldatom · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

I will be in Yosemite for a while and would like to get some of the exposure of climbing upper pitches on El Cap without the big wall climbing. Any beta on free/french moderates (up to 5.10 A0) that could safely be rapped onto from the top? Not interested in overhanging, rap-route finding epics.

Thanksgiving Ledge looks like a possibility, from the topo anyway.

This video would imply that the Salathe Headwall can be straightforwardly rapped into, but that's above my pay grade.

https://vimeo.com/31878065

Parker Kempf · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

yer gonna die
make sure east ledges lines are in good condition (or even up) before you just start juggin away (coreshots abound!)
if you take the falls trail....im sorry
ive done a handful of routes but couldnt give great beta on the summit for any of them...its mostly pine trees and 4th class slab
yer definitely gonna die

ive heard if you start from the ground up you get used to the exposure gradually...like doing runs to dolt tower, or doing the freeblast...both of which offer 1,000+ ft of exposure and 5.10 C1 terrain with rap routes....

good luck, when will you be out there?

alix morris · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10

You could probably rap into the Nose, those upper pitches are 5.10 MONEY. The fixed lines are up on the east ledges.

Greg Carlisle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

I believe someone tried this last season....after the reacue he got charged lots of money...theres a thread on supertopo about it...in fact it might be better to ask for advice over there..goodluck!!

Darrell Cornick · · Salem, OR · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5

I say this in fun as I think rule #1 is important. I suggest not drinking water for a day or two and doing E buttres of middle. Or take some broccoli to the a sport crag. Arrange it on the ground below the first bolt and use your imagination. Go to the valley, have a blast and just come back for the Cap when you have more time.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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