Area info for Maine

Anyone have any area info for Central Maine? I am planning a trip up to Augusta area (actually Mt.Vernon) to visit family, but I'd like to take a day and get the nephew out for a toprope or two. I saw a pitiful ref to some bouldering on the river but I know there's got to be some real crags out there (as I used to live there long before I started climbing). There also has to be something known in the Sugarloaf/ Kingsley/ Rangely lake area. But actually closer to where I will be is Web lake Mt. Blue area. I know I have seen ropes set up there back in the day. Anyone know of any hidden gems or beta they'd like to share?

"The Mountain" in the Belgrade Lakes area has a small cliff suitable for toproping. Just google The Mountain Belgrade, Maine and you'll get the beta. It's a great little hike that leads to a nice look out point with three big trees for top rope anchors.
In that same area, off of Castle Island Road just before the sharp right hand turn that leads to the camps, on the left, is the Castle Island boulder. This rock has at least 3 great problems on it.
Mount Phillip also has climbable rock but it's a little more adventurous to get to...
A few of the sugarloaf boulders have been submitted to this site already but there's plenty more unlisted stuff in that area.
What time of year are you planning this trip? Get yourself some good bug dope if you going spring or summer as you probably already know the bugs will be heinous.

It's a bit of a drive but Eagle Bluff in Clifton has a nice toprope area as well as other decent climbing. There is a campground nearby but you can also camp on top of the cliff for a good overnight. Perfectly legal, decent view. Park's Pond-- also in Clifton-- is a decent top-rope area too.

Jim

+1 for Clifton Crags if you can get there. I would drive all the way there just for a few laps on Happy Face!

Camden Hills is only about 1.5 - 2 hrs away depending on traffic. the climbing there is decent and there's a fair amount, too.

directions from mt vernon to camden hills

Check out :www.mainerock.com
That should get you started.

I think you are about an hour from Shagg Crag, there are a few routes that you could put a toprope up on, but I think you have to lead them first (not sure though). I have mini-guide to the area that a fellow mp'er gave me, message me if you want it.

Thanks for all your info, this is very helpful. Just looked at the mainerock page for tumbledown which will be going on my bucket list- though maybe not for this trip. The Belgrade crag sounds like a nice fallback option- this is also a teaching opportunity for the nephew so doesn't need to be too fancy.
Absolutely on the bug dope too. Black flies are hell spawn in June (that's my timeframe), here in MD I'm known for my bug tolerance, not so much in the great white north. I was thinking of bringing one of those new clip-ons as im aware that rope and deet don't mix.

IanPerry wrote:Thanks for all your info, this is very helpful. Just looked at the mainerock page for tumbledown which will be going on my bucket list- though maybe not for this trip. The Belgrade crag sounds like a nice fallback option- this is also a teaching opportunity for the nephew so doesn't need to be too fancy. Absolutely on the bug dope too. Black flies are hell spawn in June (that's my timeframe), here in MD I'm known for my bug tolerance, not so much in the great white north. I was thinking of bringing one of those new clip-ons as im aware that rope and deet don't mix.

Not quite mid state but Shagg has the best sport climbing in the state. That and Wild River (NH/ME boarder) would be two musts for hard sport.

Twitchell, Tumbledown and Squaredock. Handren guide gives info for Bethel areas. About an hour or so away. Camden and Bangor areas good fun also.

Ian:

If in Mt. Vernon, you've got Camden to the East, and access to the best Western crags. Shagg is supposed to be a hearty place. I managed to explore the Hallowell quarries for some excellent crack climbing, but we got thrown out of there.

Camden has some very nice stuff, and is where I've climbed most. The Verticals have some 80' bolted and toproping routes up to 5.12, and Barrett's Cove cliff is loaded with 2 pitch routes, with lots of anchors and bolts. The Ramparts are mostly above my 5.9-10 skill level, but can be toproped.

My first trad climb was Tumbledown, which is a very worthwhile trek.

I'd be glad to show you the Camden climbs...I'm a half hour east of Augusta, and a half hour west of Camden. I can send you some printed scans of climbing in the area if you want.

Ccaissie - email me at lobfish@hotmail.com I'd love to have the full tour, I can't make any promises yet though since I have family functions to work out first. Thank you very much for the hospitality.