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Places to top-rope solo in Boulder Canyon?

Original Post
Austin Piper · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 80

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good place to top-rope solo in Boulder Canyon? Having bolted anchors would be convenient, but I'm not opposed to building my own, using trees, etc. And if there are any spots to do this that have cracks and slabs in the 5.8 to lower 5.11 range, even better.

Conversely, if anyone would be interested in climbing with me tomorrow afternoon, let me know. I am just passing through, though, and am perfectly happy climbing by myself, too.

Thanks in advance for any input!

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

Hey Austin,

Places I remember having fun TR-soloing in Boulder Canyon are:

- The Brick Wall ; right next to the road so no approach, bolt anchor, 5.10/5.11 face climbs up the middle

- Cob Rock ; Houston Crack (.8) and Aid Crack (.10d) can be TR'd with gear anchor, scramble carefully around to the left. Have to tyrolean across the creek which may be sketchy in May. Shady if it's a hot day.

- Practice Rock ; easy approach, gear anchor+large tree, short but good hard cracks with pin-scars

- Nip and Tuck ; right next to road. Bolt anchors on most. Excellent short 5.9 finger crack, easy warm-ups, a good .12 face climb and some others. This would be my first choice depending on crowds.

Good luck, have fun.

Jerimiah Gentry · · Eugene, or · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 50

Thanks Dfrench! I just googled "solo toproping boulder canyon" and your article immediately answered my question. Thank you!

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

I like practice rock. The climbs there are pretty fun and give you a good workout.

Houston Crack can be awkward if you want to practice offwidth because your device will constantly be in the way, but its an easy anchor to setup. Uses your own gear

Dátus Tomasovich · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 35
DFrench wrote: Hey Austin, Places I remember having fun TR-soloing in Boulder Canyon are: - The Brick Wall ; right next to the road so no approach, bolt anchor, 5.10/5.11 face climbs up the middle - Cob Rock ; Houston Crack (.8) and Aid Crack (.10d) can be TR'd with gear anchor, scramble carefully around to the left. Have to tyrolean across the creek which may be sketchy in May. Shady if it's a hot day. - Practice Rock ; easy approach, gear anchor+large tree, short but good hard cracks with pin-scars - Nip and Tuck ; right next to road. Bolt anchors on most. Excellent short 5.9 finger crack, easy warm-ups, a good .12 face climb and some others. This would be my first choice depending on crowds. Good luck, have fun.

Any beta for the approach for Nip re: gaining the anchors on the finger crack and the 12b? Chill or involved?

 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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