Time to start looking at double ropes again

Use: Ice and trad rock.
Where used: North East.
Do I intend on taking falls/working a route? nope.
Length 60m

Previous and current ropes:
Mammut Genesis 8.5mm x 60m (retired)
Mammut Infinity 9.5mm x 70m (stupid me, should have bought the 60m)
Sterling Duetto 8.4mm x 60m (love them)

Looking at:

Sterling Fusion Photon 7.8mm 5.6kN 42.0g/m
Sterling Evolution Duetto 8.4mm 6.5kN 45.0g/m
Mammut Phoenix Superdry 8.0mm 6.0kN 42.0g/m
Beal Ice Line Unicore 8.1mm 4.9kN 39.0g/m
Petzl Dragonfly Dry 8.2mm 5.1kN 41.8g/m (loose sheath twisting issues?

PMI Verglas 8.1mm 5.2kN 42.1g/m

I've been very happy with the PMI 8.1mm verglass. Had them for several years, and I have fallen on them. Holding up nicely, still quite waterproof. Rated for twin/half use, 42.1 g/m.

Albeit you don't state you're looking at it but the Beal Joker 9.1 (2 of them) makes a great, multi-use system. They are rated single/double/twin so on cruiser terrain go single and save time on coiling, etc. Move onto a wandering route or a route you'll likely fall on and go to doubles (or twin, we rock them via doubles). Its a great system and the ropes have GREAT so far. Very happy with the feel and durability.

the Joker would end up as a pretty heavy combo...
BEAL spec

Ive also been very happy with my PMI verglass set up. The dry coating seems to have held up very well compared to other single ropes Ive owned in the past. The half/twin combo does occasionally come in handy too.

I have had great experiences with PMI Verglass. Great ropes, and very durable for doubles/twins. HTH.

Edit to add: I don't know how they do on ice, but they perform great on rock.

Anita's Luc minus the beard?

of the ropes you are looking at, I have gone through the Beal Ice Line on rock and ice and the Mammut Phoenix on rock and ice and prefer the durability of the Phoenix over Beal when mixing seasons. Last couple years I have been exclusively with Edelweiss, more for sponsor reasons than any other, but very happy with the Oxygen and Heliums...but keep in mind I own both doubles and twins and rarely switch on rock and ice anymore. If I could only have one pair, it would be the Edelweiss Oxygen or the Mammut Phoenix. Good luck on your decision.

The Stoned Master wrote:Albeit you don't state you're looking at it but the Beal Joker 9.1 (2 of them) makes a great, multi-use system...

id reocmmend looking at any half ropes made by bluewater as well

Mike wrote: PMI Verglass. ... I don't know how they do on ice...

another +1 for the PMI verglas (my half/twin ropes)

also thumbs up for the sterling fusion photon (one of my partner's twin ropes).

I believe there is a thread on here discussing some issues with the petzl dragonflys

I climb with the Photon Fusions. I absolutely love them. They are light, pack to almost nothing when you split them between partners, and their smooth as shit clipping. The downside is, I had a stuck rope and pulled on it REALLY hard, which I shouldn't have done, and I split the sheath on the rope. Oops. Got a replacement and I haven't had issues yet. Been climbing alpine and ice on them for 2 years. And their half/twin rated!

Those Metolius 7.8 lines are crazy durable. I've used mine for more mileage than any other rope, half or single, and they're still holding up. It actually doesn't make any sense, but I'm happy. Maybe it's just a fluke, but it is a good one.

Dobson wrote:Those Metolius 7.8 lines are crazy durable. I've used mine for more mileage than any other rope, half or single, and they're still holding up. It actually doesn't make any sense, but I'm happy. Maybe it's just a fluke, but it is a good one.

Dobson wrote:Those Metolius 7.8 lines are crazy durable. I've used mine for more mileage than any other rope, half or single, and they're still holding up. It actually doesn't make any sense, but I'm happy. Maybe it's just a fluke, but it is a good one.

jim.dangle wrote: Another question. Do you find the crazy skinny ropes get hung up more when pulling? JIm

I've used those lines on everything but bouldering. I even sport climbed a bit when they were all I had with me.

Mostly I use them for ice and alpine, including lots of abrasive rock like on the Evolution Traverse (unbelievably rough and sharp!). I also prefer then for hard trad climbs because of minimal drag and easy clipping. For a couple years, I used them more than any other rope. I average 2-3 climbing days per week.

Several years into their lives, they are now starting to get a little fuzzy and prone to icing up. I don't use them anymore on climbs that will be really wet, but I do still take them out on ice.

I have the older white and dark blue versions. The new yellow and purple ones look to be the same.

Phillip

I do not know if this is so important with double ropes or what it implies about durability but I thought this was relevant if you were considering the beal rope: beal unicorn thread

Another +1 for PMI verglas!

They are GREAT on ice.

Plus 1 for pmis.

Another vote for PMI Verglass.
These feel VERY light. Excellent handling, not "Saggy" or "Bouncy" on rappel as some other double lines have felt in the past.
Only used them on Ice so far this season, but were outstanding on a really wet section that had everything else getting wet and freezing: Dyneema, Nylon, 'biners, gloves etc. Ropes didn't seem to pick up any water. Just as light at the end of the day as at the start.
Awesome.