Mountain Project Logo

Beta on Practicing Aide and Hauling?

Original Post
Samantha Miller · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 105

I recently started getting into trad and now long for long multiple pitches. However, I live in Utah and these are not entirely abundant by any means. I would like to get some beta on big wall things, especially aide climbing and hauling, so that I can practice them close to home, before venturing off into the beautiful abyss. Any suggestions?

Alpinisto · · Connecticut · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 30

My suggestions:

1. Spend time going through old posts in the Big Wall/Aid forums here on Mountain Project and Rockclimbing.com.

2. Do the same at John Middendorf's Bigwalls.com website (an aid climbing-specific site which, while not posted on as often as the other climbing sites, has a shit-ton of useful information from guys who actually do a lot of aid/bigwall climbing).

3. Pick up the following books:

-Climbing Big Walls by Mike Strassman
-Big Walls by John Long and John Middendorf
-Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique by Jared Ogden

4. Find an experienced aid climber in your area and see if s/he will take you under their wing and show you the ropes (pun intended). Payment in the form of beer, hauling loads, beer, belay slavery and/or beer will probably get you pretty far. ;-)

I've done #1 through #3 and have figured out a ton of stuff (that I now need to go practice ad infinitum at my local crag). Still working on #4, though... ;-)

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Another good resource:
supertopo.com/a/How-To-Big-…

McNamara does an excellent job here. It is very important to master the low angle and easy aid before attempting to progress.

Tim Hudgel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 150

Have Fun!!

Is the Internet cool, or what?

The Fang

Wade J. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25

I second Jason's comment. Also google Mark Hudon, he is a big wall magician and has some great write ups online.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Wade J. · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 25
Mark Hudon wrote:Thanks, El Cap Route Panoramas and Big Wall Tips
Yeah, that would be the site! I was posting from my phone and didn't have the link. Thank you Mark, for teaching the world that big wall anchors can be sexy.
Samantha Miller · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 105

Thanks guys, I greatly appreciate the help, it is much needed! Cheers!

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

A shameless plug for my newly updated index, where you can find almost everything you never wanted to know about aid climbing and big walls:

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Beta on Practicing Aide and Hauling?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started