Two ways to jug, which way is better?

The answer is, "it depends".

If I am following a vertical or less than vertical aid pitch then two ascenders is best.

If I am following an overhanging roof (i.e. Kor's Roof on Washington Column) then I find a GriGri and one ascender works better for me.

If I was in a party of three on a serious overhanging route where a lot of ascending is done in mid air (West Face of Leaning Tower) then I would have a caving frog system with one chest ascender (petzl croll) and one hand ascender (LH) dialed in.

Using the frog system with a dedicated chest ascender is rare and used predominately for caving.

Make sure to use back up knots with all methods when cleaning in case you pop off and go for a ride.

If you are jugging a fixed line and do not want to do back up knots you can use an old caving trick; attach a pruisk above your upper most ascender. The prusik moves up and is minded every time your ascender moves up. If you pop off then the prusik catches you.

Thank you randy88fj62, you covered it perfectly. Couldn't have said it better.

Marla J wrote: The bottom ascender would not feed for me especially since I tied in and it took the weight off. Too mu ch thumb action for my likings too.

Yeah, I do all my jugging on fixed static ropes so it is a bit different.

Ed Wright wrote: Yeah, I do all my jugging on fixed static ropes so it is a bit different.

You don't clean then. It's different then...i think. What are your recommendations on the elongation percent for an aide rope? Or should I just go with the cheapest beater? ....new 10.2 ...ideas??

If you're using a rope 100% for aid then a larger diameter would make sense. If you do a lot of multi-pitch with a little aiding then a Ø9.8mm would be fine. The larger diameters are heavier but add the extra security.

I have used my 9.8mm new england rope for almost all my climbing in the last 4 years from sport, trad, and aid / big wall. It's all about hom much you want to pay too. I prefer dry ropes with either bi-pattern or bi-color. I don't want to be looking for a middle mark in the dark when trying to get off a route and the extra cash for a bi-pattern is worth it for me.

randy88fj62 wrote:If you're using a rope 100% for aid then a larger diameter would make sense. If you do a lot of multi-pitch with a little aiding then a Ø9.8mm would be fine. The larger diameters are heavier but add the extra security. I have used my 9.8mm new england rope for almost all my climbing in the last 4 years from sport, trad, and aid / big wall. It's all about hom much you want to pay too. I prefer dry ropes with either bi-pattern or bi-color. I don't want to be looking for a middle mark in the dark when trying to get off a route and the extra cash for a bi-pattern is worth it for me.

My mid mark is fluorescent pink mason cord. Even worn still visible and you feel it passing through hands too. 9.8?
I thought the minimum recommended is 10 due to abrasion factor. I think it will be 50/50 aide/trad. Im inclined to by a dry 60 m sterling for the season and a 9 60 m static haul line.

The cord is stitched through the rope for security.

I'm not sure how much science is behind the recommended Ø10mm rope for big wall climbing. It makes common sense that a larger diameter rope will have a better chance of not receiving a core shot.

Let say there is a sharp edge that starts to abrade through your sheath. The difference in wall shickness of a 9.8mm and a 10.2 mm rope is .008 inches which is roughly the thickness of three pieces of paper.

So, does that make a large difference in getting a core shot? I don't believe it would make a difference. Both diameters would get a core shot and ruin your day.

So the question goes on, when does the diameter of a rope get too big and heavy or when does a rope diameter get too small and put your life at greater risk? I don't have that answer.