Bouldering my first v10

S Denny wrote: bouldering videos will never be inspiring. climb higher.

Not surprising since it appears from your tick list that you only climb on rope. Some people find bouldering videos inspiring because....they like to boulder. But thanks for sharing your thoughts!

bowshaaa wrote: There is a stand start where you are matched on the horizontal razor crimp of fotowa but I was told that is the "super stand start". To the left of fotowa is a problem called pistol grip and on the right of fotowa is pressure drop. Ive never known of any other problems than these on this boulder.

Right on... I went back and checked my 8a ticks and it looks like back in 2004 I marked off having done a 7C stand start at GB called The Jerk. I could have swore that it was on the right side of Fotwa... maybe it was renamed in the last 9 years to Pressure Drop. I seem to recall it starting on the right side of fotwa and climbing up the right arete.

CaptainMo wrote: Right on... I went back and checked my 8a ticks and it looks like back in 2004 I marked off having done a 7C stand start at GB called The Jerk. I could have swore that it was on the right side of Fotwa... maybe it was renamed in the last 9 years to Pressure Drop. I seem to recall it starting on the right side of fotwa and climbing up the right arete.

Yeah, I know what youre talking about now, starting on the high crimp and then making a slightly big move to the left hand crimp and then topping out. I guess I did that problem too then when I was playing through some beta!

bowshaaa wrote: Yeah, I know what youre talking about now, starting on the high crimp and then making a slightly big move to the left hand crimp and then topping out. I guess I did that problem too then when I was playing through some beta!

awesome - did that feel about V9? Sounds about right...I think it was like 1 or 2 hard moves.

CaptainMo wrote: awesome - did that feel about V9? Sounds about right...I think it was like 1 or 2 hard moves.

Yeah it's pretty much like a one arm pullup and a low probability move also. I would agree with a 9 on that.

word... thnx for playing sounding board and congrads on the sends... always wanted to hit V10 but with injuries was never able to break through into that grade.

Guess we all have things that inspire us and things that don't speak to us at all. Just like some of us are motivated by grades, others by FAs, or others by just spending good time with good friends. Whatever the interest or motivation though, I'm glad there are people out there sharing it, especially as a reminder that their own viewpoint is just one of many. As a fellow East Coast climber, I can also appreciate the joy of walking through the woods to play on our little bits of rock, even knowing I could pick up at any time and move to a place where endless sunny slabs waited for me at the end of the day.

Bowshaaa, I've never checked out the bouldering up your way, but every video you put out makes me want to change that even more. Let me know if you're ever in Maryland and we'll be happy to show you our own little pebbles.

Robin Close wrote:Guess we all have things that inspire us and things that don't speak to us at all. Just like some of us are motivated by grades, others by FAs, or others by just spending good time with good friends. Whatever the interest or motivation though, I'm glad there are people out there sharing it, especially as a reminder that their own viewpoint is just one of many. As a fellow East Coast climber, I can also appreciate the joy of walking through the woods to play on our little bits of rock, even knowing I could pick up at any time and move to a place where endless sunny slabs waited for me at the end of the day. Bowshaaa, I've never checked out the bouldering up your way, but every video you put out makes me want to change that even more. Let me know if you're ever in Maryland and we'll be happy to show you our own little pebbles.

Thanks Robin, well said and same to you if you do ever decide to come up my way!

If anyone was interested in the training that I perform, I have included the link to the training forum where I posted the topic "Campus Board Training":

mountainproject.com/v/campu…

S Denny wrote: bouldering videos will never be inspiring. climb higher.

what would you know about inspiration? just checked your ticklist from your profile - absolutely pathetic.

whats it like to be so genetically weak? must be very frustrating

boulderbum wrote: what would you know about inspiration? just checked your ticklist from your profile - absolutely pathetic. whats it like to be so genetically weak? must be very frustrating

+ 1 billion

I'm not sure who is the biggest douchebag here...

Is it SDenny with his oh-so-MP.com dislike of bouldering for no other reason than getting 30' off the deck with 12 pieces of gear and 3 rests is clearly a superior pursuit?

Or would it be the 2 bouldering bros who still can't process the fact that one isn't required to boulder V12 (clad in nothing but a pure-wool beanie) in order to hold an opinion.

Personally I'd be more inspired seeing your morbidly obese moms getting up a 5.7 rather than some manorexic hippies sending V10. Do I need to post a ticklist to validate this statement?

edit: OP, NICE SPRAY.

bowshaaa wrote: Not surprising since it appears from your tick list that you only climb on rope. Some people find bouldering videos inspiring because....they like to boulder. But thanks for sharing your thoughts!

Climbing friend denny,

You must hate the climbing style on the climbing rocks of bouldering, because you must have only moderate grip of rabbit paw strength and static movement of sleeping lizard style, and therefore can only climb routes and bouldering is too difficult. You do not have the crushing grip of iron fist and dynamic movement of pouncing tiger style like this person making bold redpoint of v10 climbing rocks.

Nice work man,,, love it,,,