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Gavin Kakol
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Mar 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 0
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divnamite
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Mar 19, 2013
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New York, NY
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 90
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Ken Noyce
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Mar 19, 2013
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Layton, UT
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2,648
Gavin Kakol wrote:Any suggestions? get a thinner rope or a belay device with less friction.
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Stiles
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Mar 19, 2013
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the Mountains
· Joined May 2003
· Points: 845
Muscles! Isnt a climber tough? DMM Revolver biners, double ropes on meandering terrain, using extended runners to maintain a straight rope line, belaying inline w rope and not standing back from the wall muscles
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Jim Titt
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Mar 19, 2013
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Germany
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 490
Just smear the rope, rock and gear with a silicone based grease.
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Tom Caldwell
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Mar 19, 2013
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Clemson, S.C.
· Joined Jun 2009
· Points: 3,623
I really like the Omega SBGII belay device. The stem doesn't allow the ATC to clutch on the carabiner. So no bouncing or locking. I've found it to be the smoothest device for taking, lowering, and feeding rope. Since it doesn't clutch, there is no assistance when holding the rope in the break position. There are v-grooves to provide more friction if you need it though. Like it has been said, a thinner rope will help. Although, if your belayer is on the weaker side, it will require more grip strength to break.
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Forthright
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Mar 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
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Marc H
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Mar 19, 2013
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 265
Newer rope. Stiles wrote:DMM Revolver biners, double ropes on meandering terrain, using extended runners to maintain a straight rope line, belaying inline w rope... Methinks you misunderstood the question.
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Ian Stewart
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Mar 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 155
Marc H wrote:Methinks you misunderstood the question. Why do you say that? Those are all ways to reduce rope drag/friction, which would help the belayer take in slack. That's a direct answer to the question "how to reduce friction so belayer has easier time taking in slack?"
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Marc H
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Mar 19, 2013
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Longmont, CO
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 265
Ian Stewart wrote: Why do you say that? Those are all ways to reduce rope drag/friction, which would help the belayer take in slack. That's a direct answer to the question "how to reduce friction so belayer has easier time taking in slack?" I guess the only time Stiles' advice would be relevant is if someone led a single pitch, lowered off and then belayed their partner on TR. In which case, it's highly unlikely that someone would have the experience and strength to lead a trad pitch (only time long runners are generally useful) and have trouble reeling in the slack for the TR belay. And if he did, he probably would have enough knowledge to fix the situation on his own without having to ask the Internet masses for advice. I guess the other possibility is the someone led a pitch and was having difficulty reeling in the slack from the top of a pitch. But again, I'm presuming that someone with enough wherewith all to lead a pitch has enough experience to figure out how to reduce drag to make their belay easier. But maybe my presumption is wrong. My guess is that Gavin is talking about a purely TR situation. I could be wrong, but that's about the only reasonable time someone would have difficulty belaying. The other possibility that I see is that his question was poorly worded and the belayer is having difficult paying out rope and not reeling it in. Either way, more information from Gavin would have helped.
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TWK
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Mar 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 160
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JCM
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Mar 19, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 115
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John D
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Mar 20, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 10
The question sounds like a tops rope question. In which case I'd say extend your master point farther from the edge.
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Keny Glasscock
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Mar 20, 2013
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 95
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mountainhick
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Mar 20, 2013
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Black Hawk, CO
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 120
I hate it when a climbers says " take in SLACK!"
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