The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Same question about Marthas? Any ice in it?

I was on Long's yesterday (3/14) and Dreamweaver had seemingly no ice in at the crux. But it's starting to fill in with snow.

Martha looked better than it did last month when I climbed it. I'd imagine there's some ice in it now. Would be worth it to go up there if you're psyched on Martha. I climbed it in lean conditions which would likely not be encountered around now.

The Flying Dutchman was decent snow to a pretty fat ice crux. The ice took 13cm & 17cm screws. Pretty good day out.

Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?

Nina GJ wrote:Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?

In Ouray now. Drove up Camp Bird yesterday, but didn't get far enough to see any ice. Drove up Red Mountain to the summit and saw Horsetail and a few other routes are in. Gravity is not in though.

The Drool has fallen down - barely even a base left to the pillar.

Redstone Pillar is still good to go for a while yet, but getting pretty snicey so pro is somewhat psychological.

Nina GJ wrote:Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?

Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day.

We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good.

It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look.

Andy Hansen wrote:I was on Long's yesterday (3/14) and Dreamweaver had seemingly no ice in at the crux. But it's starting to fill in with snow. Martha looked better than it did last month when I climbed it. I'd imagine there's some ice in it now. Would be worth it to go up there if you're psyched on Martha. I climbed it in lean conditions which would likely not be encountered around now. The Flying Dutchman was decent snow to a pretty fat ice crux. The ice took 13cm & 17cm screws. Pretty good day out.

Kind of curious on Dutchman. Did you need slow shoes for the approach? I know the trail below treeline is pretty packed in the winter, but I've regretted not bringing them above treeline sometimes and loathed bringing them others.

Thanks!

PS I'm definitely waiting this week and next week out as, according to the forecast, winds might whip up some -70 windchill values. Also, some snow is in the forecast, and a few good friends of mine have descended the Loft in a white-out and apparently it was no fun at all.

I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary.

Andy Hansen wrote:I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary.

Nice! Thanks, Andy! Hopefully the wind this week scours most of the incoming snow off of the approach. I know I'll regret the decision to bring or not bring them either way. It's just how it goes. Hah!

Hi guys,
any informations about ice climbing by estes park.
like west gully by balck lake or hidden falls.
Any other suggestion about ice to hit in this area or by vail it is welcome.
Thanks

Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley.

Ari Allen wrote:Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley.

I was up there Saturday and the Gulley was looking awesome! We reverse climbed it (TR each pitch down) and 2 guys lead it before we reversed it.

I want to go back for the lead!

Grace falls is fat on the left side. Thin and chandeliered in the middle. My bet is it will only get fatter in the month of april.

Martin le Roux wrote: Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day. We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good. It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look.

Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going.

Nina GJ wrote: Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going.

+1, very nice!

Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things.

Martin le Roux wrote:Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things.

Ah yes the protectionist climber. They're a common breed. They don't like to admit that their sport is somewhat more "mainstream" these days. God forbid we make posts with the hopes of helping better inform other climbers. It doesn't mean there will be swarms of people at your favorite secret spot the next time you go out, but they like to pretend it will bring out every gumby and their frat-boy friend. Oh, and don't worry, it was someone else's favorite secret spot long before it was yours.

/rant

Account of an attempt on the great canadian classic - Polar Circus.

county5.blogspot.com/2013/0…

I wonder how many climbers have had the: "Is this it? Is this where I die?" experience on Polar Circus? Happened to me a few years ago just after finishing a lead on the ribbon pitch - on a day where the avy danger was "moderate" and the wardens had told us "it's totally safe, we just bombed it yesterday" - which, as anyone who climbs much in Canada knows, the wardens NEVER say. You guys did the right thing, start in the dark and climb fast. Many these days treat it as pretty casual, but it's always a serious undertaking.

The previous year I tried twice and bailed due to avi conditions. This year it was in great shape... I didn't think they did much control work up that way.