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Red Rocks Sun/ Shade - Long 11's and 12's Tick List

Original Post
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525

Heading out to RR for my first trip next week. I got a few routes picked out but mainly on shady walls. What are some must do sunny routes incase the weather's a little chilly?

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I doubt very much you will have to worry about it...but here are warmer options......

Resolution Arete and Dogma on Wilson, East facing, upper pitches on both will be shaded by the time you get to them, but air temp will be much higher than north facing aspects

Times Up, Pro Choice and Ten Minute Shift all receive a good amount of sun right now, more than 50%..need to combine two of them for a full day though

Levitation combined with Ringtail or Mountain Beast make for a full day out, full sun

The Warrior faces east and even though most of the climbing is shaded by the corner, air temp will be significantly higher than north aspects

Ixtlan gets some morning sun, way warmer than anything deeper in....can be combined with Our Father for a solid day

good luck on your trip...

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525

Thanks for the list! Any other must do shady routes you'd recommend other than Rainbow, Cloud, Drifting, Texas Tower Direct?

Also does Ixtlan still have the old bolts?

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

yes on Ixtlan, but I made it fine with sliding one 6, two would be bomber...the wide part is short...Dan and Joanne's bolts worthless at this point...

if you are like super fast on moderate terrain, I do Cloud in 5 pitches myself, a great combo is Clod at 5 long pitches as well, then rap Crimson...just did it Friday, is an awesome little route, 1000', to the left of Crimson...one great 5.10+ pitch, then just 5.9, but several good pitches, not one bolt on the entire route..I left you some nuts to rap into Crimson with...makes for a complete day if you are fast on Cloud..I will have it up on Summitpost by Wed

Celtic Cracks was pretty cool..just solo the bottom...then several good pitches...the roof is worth it...mostly shade, neat descent

Otherwise, you have the better routes cornered..good luck

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

For shade you could do Risky Business rap off then do Excellent Adventure. That would be 7 pitches of fantastic 5.10 and 5.11 climbing on an amazing wall.
And Drifting is not to be missed!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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