Southern VT climbing

So my wife and I are thinking about moving up to Brattleboro, VT from Asheville, NC. We have pretty close access to climbing here but havent found much in that area. I was wondering if there was any climbing in Green Mountains NF? It looks like Brattleboro would be about 2.5hrs from the Gunks and about 2hrs to Rumney and the Whites. This seems like a great central location to both of these places but I was wondering if there was anything closer that we could hit in a day, like maybe 30min or an hour away. It seems like all the climbing on MP is in northern VT but Im sure there are some people who know some other areas. Thanks for the help and I look forward to hearing about these areas.

Cody

There's good climbing in Western MA that is 30-60min away. There's also some climbing in Southern NH. Lots of good granite. Lots of boulders everywhere too.

email me, i know the area very well. cheers

I used to frequent Brattleboro when I lived just over the state line in rural Massachusetts. It's a great town, similar to a smaller scale Asheville actually. I can totally see why you'd pick that area.

That said, the Glass is one of the premier climbing areas in the United States and the climbing within 1 hour of your new home is, well, nothing you'll be very excited to stay home on weekends for. There's good smaller crags around that are nice for after work. A good thing is that you're right on the highway and pretty central to TONS of rock and ice climbing (and hiking) in New Hampshire, northern Vermont, Adirondacks, and the Gunks - all within 1.5-3 hours away.

I'll show you around the Gunks for some of that Highlander Scotch Ale (are they still making that stuff?), that was one of the better rainy day treats I ever had on a trip.

I dont think they are making the scotch ale any more, but there is a new IPA called devils britches that is very good. I am very interested in ice as well, never done it but looks like a lot of fun and a totally different skill set than rock, so that is something to look forward to. Im still not positive if or when the move will happen but if it does I will definitely be posting here to find some climbing partners or get some more beta. Thanks for all the information and hopefully the move works out.
I have to agree about the Glass being premier. Were there at least once a week or rumbling bald. We have been going to Cedar Rock a bit lately too, its a longer hike but completely empty even on the weekends. Thanks again

Cody

Hey Cody,

I used to go to school at Keene State, and there are a few good climbing spots. There is a really cool stone arch bridge off route 101 just south/south east of downtown by the river. It offers about 50 feet of face climbing 5.8- 5.11

My favorite spot is called Rabbit Hollow in Swanzy, NH which has recently become a full-fledged conservation area. It has some fantastic crack climbs and stellar granite. Not that far out but seems really remote. Not many people know about it, probable better to keep it that way. It is a bit hard to find but basically google map Rabbit Hollow Road in Swanzy NH. Print this map out with contour lines. Go to the "end" of Rabbit Hollow road and park on right. There is a small house on left. After this the road goes on but is class five and often has big puddles so continue driving only if you have a 4X4. Go < 1/4 of a mile and turn left at a junction, follow the first trail to the height of the land and turn right on a smaller trail and go to the absolute height of the land. Bring some webbing to sling trees for top roping.
The main thing is just follow the height of the land. The first time I went I just bush wacked uphill till I found it. The cliff is 90 feet at the tallest and has 5.6 – 5.hard.

There is another place called Marlow profile but I never thought too much of it.

Send me a message if you want more info.

Tom Z

This area is also know as Hewe's Hill and there is a well marked trail starting from Warmac Rd off of Route 32, it is a 3/4 mile hike. Here is a link to the map. town.swanzey.nh.us/vertical…(2).pdf

tommyguns wrote:Hey Cody, I used to go to school at Keene State, and there are a few good climbing spots. There is a really cool stone arch bridge off route 101 just south/south east of downtown by the river. It offers about 50 feet of face climbing 5.8- 5.11 My favorite spot is called Rabbit Hollow in Swanzy, NH which has recently become a full-fledged conservation area. It has some fantastic crack climbs and stellar granite. Not that far out but seems really remote. Not many people know about it, probable better to keep it that way. It is a bit hard to find but basically google map Rabbit Hollow Road in Swanzy NH. Print this map out with contour lines. Go to the "end" of Rabbit Hollow road and park on right. There is a small house on left. After this the road goes on but is class five and often has big puddles so continue driving only if you have a 4X4. Go < 1/4 of a mile and turn left at a junction, follow the first trail to the height of the land and turn right on a smaller trail and go to the absolute height of the land. Bring some webbing to sling trees for top roping. The main thing is just follow the height of the land. The first time I went I just bush wacked uphill till I found it. The cliff is 90 feet at the tallest and has 5.6 – 5.hard. There is another place called Marlow profile but I never thought too much of it. Send me a message if you want more info. Tom Z

There is some climbing around Jamaica vt...a few trad and mixed routes and some bouldering. Southern NH has tons of nice single pitch stuff, north western mass has tons of great stuff as well.

All of your major destinations are a couple hours away but it's a great community and you can find some local climbing.

would marshfield be too far north? Deer Leap where the AT crosses?

I live in Keene NH, just over the border. There is tons of cragging in the area, just have to know where to look. Let me know if you move inito the area, and I would be happy to show you around.
R koning

I just came across this posting. I live near Brattleboro and I'm new to climbing. I'd be interested in finding a climbing partner/s in the area that could show me the ropes. Message me if interested!
-Naomi

My steady partner moved to the Brattleboro area from Boulder many years ago. Wished he'd moved somewhere else from a climbing perspective as obviously was spoiled in Boulder in regards to distance to climbs.

Other than all the small rock stuff mentioned - everything else is a drive. Anything further east of Crawford Notch is more than five hours round trip. Cathedral, Whitehorse or Mt. Washington for the day - too much driving. Rumney, Franconia Notch, etc are within the five hours round trip.

As for ice, all those above are the same and then you also have Smugglers Notch and Lake Willoughby that are also within five hours round trip.

So as along as you know you have to drive and don't mind you'll be all set.

One other thing to think about - VT has one of the highest personal income tax rates in the country. NH is the only state that has neither an income tax or a sales tax. Car insurance is allot less too. Property taxes are higher.

PM me if you want any NH beta.

Farley ledge, Rose ledge, Mormon hollow are about 30 minutes away. Pretty good single pitch sport and trad. Farley is generally considered the best crag between the Gunks and Rumney.

I've been to the Gunks, Rumney, Canon, Cathedral. Yeah, they're all a level above what you'll find in western MA, but you'll also be waiting in line for any of the good climbs on a weekend.

I've enjoyed my local crags, good climbing and rarely crowded.

Here's your breakdown photocodo, Brattleboro is actually a pretty sweet spot if you're willing to drive a bit, but Farley's close and will be your local crag, which is awesome!

Farley Ledge- lots of good sport, trad, hard bouldering- 30 mins
Pawtuckaway- lots of bouldering, some good rope climbs I've heard- 1hr 45mins
Great Barrington- lots of good bouldering- 1hr 45 mins
Killington- Deer Leap is a cool small cliff, lots of good boudlering- 1hr 30 mins
Rumney- I'm sure you know what that is, go on weekdays- 1hr 45 mins
Marshfield, Bolton, Smuggs Notch- lots of rock and world class ice- under 2 hrs
North Conway crags and areas- world class granite trad, sport climbing, more amazing ice- 3 hrs or less
Ragged Mtn CT- 1hr 30 mins

Besides Rumney you'll barely have to deal with any crowds, which is always a plus....

Oops....forgot to mention Cannon and the Gunks