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Pain in the Neck
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 1.9 from 166
votes
Routes in Sweet Pain Wall
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A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Grind, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lee Press On S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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No Gain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Pain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pain in the Neck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,561 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 2, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping the first two bolts.
Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.
Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.
Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.
This is not a good line to push your limits on.
Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl inset into the wall.
Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route can be done at 5.10a by moving right, up and then back left to the second bolt, but this seemed broken-up and less of a natural line to me. As well, I watched a 5'2" partner try to pink-point the route this way, and she was unable to get to a good stance to clip the second bolt this way, eventually electing to pass the crux, then clip it below.
Climbing up and left for the first few bolts felt like insecure 5.10c, but was a better and probably safer line. Climb past 3 more bolts on easier terrain to the fixed anchor on top of the route.
This is not a good line to push your limits on.
13 Comments