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Old Aid Line Beta In Garden of the Gods...

Original Post
Ryan Chelstowski · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 155

Looking to find some old aid line beta on lines that have (or had) pins but are not in guides or on MP. If you have any info on any old routes, I would greatly appreciate it.
my email is m_chelstowski AT yahoo
Cheers

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

What are you looking for? Possibilities for free ascents? Repeating the nailing route? Some additional info could narrow things down. Keep in mind that you may get fined/and detained or at least harrassed for nailing in the garden. It used to be illegal but Ive been out of the loop for a few years...

I would suggest a PM to Stewart Green. He posts here occasionally and you should be able to search for his profile.

Joe Forrester · · Palo Alto · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 2,112

Let me know which ones you are interested in....might be able to provide some insight/beta. -J

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

These routes are plenty obscure and not in the current guidebooks. I think Montezuma's East Face was mentioned in the old South Platte book but with no beta. Here ya go:

The east face of Montezuma’s Tower is A4 to a rotten bolt ladder. Some guy had a bloody accident on that thing a few years ago. Probably hasn’t been done since. Nasty

This one is definitely not in the guidebook:
A variation to Triple Exposure on the north end of north gateway hooks left off just above the first anchor and then continues up a thin dirty crack until it rejoins the original aid line somewhere around the middle of the second pitch. Clean aid from there unless you're cranking 5.12 over crap gear. The hook traverse is in shallow solution pockets on a weird bulge. As I remember it I think we went out about 15 or 20 feet before we reached the thin seam. A few birdbeaks (tomahawks would rule this thing!) and then a decent angle and thin nutting to a rotten groove and bigger (not better) gear. This might not go clean but we tried our best not to destroy the beak placements when we cleaned. I'm not sure it has ever had a second ascent. Good luck!

The North West ridge of Block tower above the practice slab used to be an A1 bolt ladder. When I climbed it in the late 90's it was HORRIBLE! It was just clip and go but every piece was a time bomb. Harvey Carter told me there was a nailing route on the west face somewhere but I never pieced it together with binoculars.

Definitely never in any guidebook:
Pisa rock (AKA Snakehead rock) out by the camera obscure and balanced rock has a gnarly A4 straight out the west face roof. If you find the rock you can’t miss the route. Look for the "fixed" RURP in the roof.
FA 1997 AC Robertson (solo)

Ryan Chelstowski · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 155

Thanks for all the beta.
ACR & Joe Forrester:
I still believe you are not allowed to nail, so I am looking to repeat clean lines. I have seen some lines all over that look like they used to have pins, but have been pulled. I was thinking I may be able to hand place some.

ACR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

Get an old army ring angle and chop off the first 3 inches. Then take a file or carefully use a disk grinder to make some serrations along the bottom of the pin. Ive hand placed one of these into empty drilled angle hole from time to time and it works great. Be careful though, you don't want it to get stuck.
A lot of the old fixed piton holes were drilled at a slight angle so the hand placed pin will cam a little bit and the serrations along the bottom help grip the soft rock. When you weight it sometimes they get stuck.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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