Self Arrest Fail...

Self Arrest Fail

That`ll ruin your day

Yikes. Self arrest course time?

In any case, glad he's okay (physically) and didn't catch a crampon and do unthinkable things to his legs.

How the hell does he go from two tools in to slipping down the couloir? He doesn't need a self-arrest course but rather a how to climb course.

That looked pretty painful!

Stich wrote:How the hell does he go from two tools in to slipping down the couloir? He doesn't need a self-arrest course but rather a how to climb course.

You did see the block of ice hit him from above right? Granted, he still should have held on to a tool, also, they had leashes? What good they did...

A thread about this video already was posted yesterday.
mountainproject.com/v/ouch/…

Brendan Blanchard wrote: You did see the block of ice hit him from above right? Granted, he still should have held on to a tool, also, they had leashes? What good they did...

I saw it the second time through. Every time I have had rocks fall on me while climbing, I have either hunkered down or in one case belaying just stepped aside. I never tried to catch the thing. I mean, what the hell was this guy thinking? He's way sketchy.

It looks like his leashes aren't adjusted properly, ie. they are too long to do any good. The leash should be tight with your hand right on the grip so that you can, you know, hold on to the fucking tool.

My Guess is.... Pubic ramus fracture of the pelvis, R knee ACL/MCL/LCL/PCL, night stick fracture (ulna), TBI , grade 3 kidney laceration and lots of contusions. I hope the guy is OK and has a full recovery!

Does anyone know where that route is?

Maybe, but the inner child is saying: "Yeah mate, is that all you got, bitch!?!"

I wonder what the final outcome was and how they got down

RockinOut wrote:I wonder . . . how they got down

They? I didn't see any evidence of a "they" or a "them." If that's correct, that's likely the central issue. A partner, rope, belay and a couple ice screws or other pro would have modified the outcome enough to make an uninteresting video.

Taylor-B. wrote:My Guess is.... TBI

Assuming, of course, it was present to begin with.

It's hilarious how the first thing this guy checks after he stops pinballing down the gully is the integrity of his helmet cam.

Bomber

This was in Snowdonia, Wales on Parsley Fern Gully (Left Hand) a little over two weeks ago. The climber involved was dazed by the piece of ice that hit him on the head, he has one chipped ankle and one broken one, otherwise OK.

RockinOut wrote:I wonder what the final outcome was and how they got down

Fortunately, we have a world class mountain rescue service in this country. Mountain rescue were on scene within 30 minutes and a Royal Navy helicopter winched him off shortly after.

Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing?

TWK wrote: It's hilarious how the first thing this guy checks after he stops pinballing down the gully is the integrity of his helmet cam.

I was thinking the exact same thing.

TWK wrote:Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing?

As opposed to what? He is clearly soloing. There is no rope. He's not aiding (unless you consider axes to be aid), so by definition it would appear that he is free soloing. I suppose he could be soloing with a partner that is also soloing, but that would still be free soloing.

Rob Lilley wrote:The climber involved was dazed by the piece of ice that hit him on the head . . .

Hand. He must have meant "hit him on the hand."

Although I'm sure he told the Medivacs it hit him on the head.

csproul wrote: As opposed to what? He is clearly soloing. There is no rope. He's not aiding (unless you consider axes to be aid), so by definition it would appear that he is free soloing. I suppose he could be soloing with a partner that is also soloing, but that would still be free soloing.

Yeah, although it looked to me like he was soloing, I was just checking to see if anyone might have seen him trailing a rope in that video clip. From the POV of the helmet cam, I thought it might be possible he was high on a rope with no pro in. Thought maybe he might have stopped after a full rope length--didn't really see any other reason his slide stopped!

Just trying to give him a break--oh, wait--bad choice of words.

TWK wrote:Just wondering, who footed (no pun intended) the bill for the chopper flight, and, was this guy free soloing?

Mountain Rescue service is "free" in the UK, as is the healthcare this guy received. The rescue team was likely made up of volunteers, and our taxes and National Insurance contributions pay the rest.

Ryan Williams wrote: Mountain Rescue service is "free" in the UK, as is the healthcare this guy received. The rescue team was likely made up of volunteers, and our taxes and National Insurance contributions pay the rest.

What is unclear in the video, and perhaps crucial to understanding this accident is, did his monocle fail? If so, who pays for that?

Axes are like transcievers these days, Everyone owns them but no one knows how to use them, and no one wants to take the time to learn how.