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Building a Moab rack

Original Post
Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

I will be moving out to Moab in May and am hoping I will have about $500 of disposable income to start up a rack.

I am not great at climbing cracks so I would like to stick to large finger cracks and hand cracks. Therefore I was thinking about getting doubles in .5-2, and was curious if any passive pro would be useful too.

Any advice/comments would be appreciated!

chrisIerickson Erickson · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 55

Where in Moab are you hoping to climb?

If you'll be on Wall Street, I'd think you'd want at least 1 #3, a single set of stoppers and some smaller cams as well. (Even if all you can do is pick up a yellow/blue metolius)

You can pick these up somewhat inexpensively:
gearexpress.com/p-5746-meto…

Paul Hunnicutt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 325

Climbing at the 5.9-5.11 desert crack level will be heavy in the #1-#3 cams. I would start with doubles of those. A few pieces above and below your stated range (.5-2) will come in handy. A .4 and #4 are typically placed a lot.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The good thing about moving there in May is that it'll be too hot to climb pretty quickly, so you can work more to build up a desert rack.

Doubles to 2, plus a 3 and a 4 camalot and a set of stoppers is a good start to a rack. Hopefully you'll find partners with big racks in a hurry though, since you'll often need a dozen or more of the same cam on many pitches around Moab.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852

Lots of used gear for sale. Don't be scared. Check the various boards (Pagan) around town for people selling gear. Out of my triple set I have I bet I bought about %20 of it new. Good luck, Moab is awesome.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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