Climbing in the Gunks today

Rock Cricket wrote:Ok thanks for the update. Your bullshit about May won't trick me. March has always been awesome for me in the Gunks and the 60 mile drive doesn't scare me off. Just I'm sick of having to decipher the varying reports of weather from the plethora of websites.

Hahaha... wait 'til you get beta from me at the base of a climb, so I deter you and hop on it myself. How you like me now?!

Eric Engberg wrote: Are you looking for Ed Webster as the other?

Hey Eric clearly this thread has gone off in a different direction than Crow Hill trivia, of which you undoubtedly know much more of than I.

So, to close the trivia portion out, the answer to the first question is: Diagonal - Kevin Bien.

When I said Eric got one I meant one of Barber's attributed FA's at Crow Hill. In addition to Jane I believe Barber is credited with the Recitavist. BTW have you seen or heard of anyone repeating the Recitavist? Over the years I have seen two people attempt to lead it and back off after several falls onto the first, and apparently last for a while, decent gear.

You are right with Ed Webster. Too easy, too much info. I was pleased to learn two years ago that he had the FFA on one of my favorites at Crow, Thin Line.

Thinking about Ed, even though I don't think he has a FA at Crow Hill I went looking for a photo I have come across of David Breashears. It is of him ice climbing at Crow. Unfortunately I couldn't find it. I guess if you can make it to the top of Crow Hill you are prepared to summit Everest.

Simon:

Any guess on whether it will be feasible to climb on Sunday? Looks like great weather but I worry everything will be soaked...

Thanks,
Logan

Simon Thompson wrote:I can understand that. All I'm really trying to say is that if you had the money for a trip in the first place, you can always climb something if you keep an open mind and a positive attitude. Try climbing at the spiders web in winter conditions, or do an easy rock route in mountaineering boots, or top-roping some really hard mixed climbing. The possibilities are pretty much endless... ESPECIALLY in the 'dax where objective hazard is generally pretty low(compared to the whites, the rockies, etc.)

OK all good points and you're right. I was going to just drive up there myself today and do some climbing but I climb mostly roped colo these days and am awaiting on some addition ice screws still before I wanna go hit up CPS or such alone - roped or not! LOL.

losbill wrote: Hey Eric clearly this thread has gone off in a different direction than Crow Hill trivia, of which you undoubtedly know much more of than I. So, to close the trivia portion out, the answer to the first question is: Diagonal - Kevin Bien. When I said Eric got one I meant one of Barber's attributed FA's at Crow Hill. In addition to Jane I believe Barber is credited with the Recitavist. BTW have you seen or heard of anyone repeating the Recitavist? Over the years I have seen two people attempt to lead it and back off after several falls onto the first, and apparently last for a while, decent gear. You are right with Ed Webster. Too easy, too much info. I was pleased to learn two years ago that he had the FFA on one of my favorites at Crow, Thin Line. Thinking about Ed, even though I don't think he has a FA at Crow Hill I went looking for a photo I have come across of David Breashears. It is of him ice climbing at Crow. Unfortunately I couldn't find it. I guess if you can make it to the top of Crow Hill you are prepared to summit Everest.

I forgot about Kevin - that's a good one. I think Webby did the FA of Birds of Fire - which is really just a variation of Watusi. Sam Streibert did some stuff too - like the girdle.

Zeb (my son) has lead Recitavist - ground up without preplaced gear (He had done it on TR). I have seen someone else - no idea who - lead it on preplaced gear. When Henry did it it had some resident pins - Paul Niland may have led it in a similar state.. Zeb also led Dune placing his own gear and using double ropes - there was some rehersal. Fortuntely he has lost his desire to lead Absolute - I hope...

Cliffs will probably be mostly wet tomorrow with snow on the ledges. Sunday should be good. Maybe not bone dry but the weather for the next two days looks sunny and nice so we shall see.

Simon Thompson wrote:Cliffs will probably be mostly wet tomorrow with snow on the ledges. Sunday should be good. Maybe not bone dry but the weather for the next two days looks sunny and nice so we shall see.

With the weather looking pristine this weekend I'm hoping that the snow melts and the rock dries up by Monday for an nice day in the Trapps before it rains again Tuesday, thoughts?

Just watch Monday's forecast, they're not sure yet if it will rain in the afternoon.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:Just watch Monday's forecast, they're not sure yet if it will rain in the afternoon.

Thanks, for the heads up, honestly I'd be willing to take the drive for even a 1/2 or 2/3 day on rock, getting really antsy, and I always work weekends or else I'd probably attempt Sunday as well

Eddie2170 wrote: Thanks, for the heads up, honestly I'd be willing to take the drive for even a 1/2 or 2/3 day on rock, getting really antsy, and I always work weekends or else I'd probably attempt Sunday as well

If you don't mind cold fingers, you could always start early Monday. Usually by 8 or 9AM the sun is high enough it warms things up quick.

Eric Engberg wrote: I forgot about Kevin - that's a good one. I think Webby did the FA of Birds of Fire - which is really just a variation of Watusi. Sam Streibert did some stuff too - like the girdle. Zeb (my son) has lead Recitavist - ground up without preplaced gear (He had done it on TR). I have seen someone else - no idea who - lead it on preplaced gear. When Henry did it it had some resident pins - Paul Niland may have led it in a similar state.. Zeb also led Dune placing his own gear and using double ropes - there was some rehersal. Fortuntely he has lost his desire to lead Absolute - I hope...

We will have to talk about where Birds of Fire actually goes. I have led it up to the right of and above the block and then stepped left and continued on Watusi a couple of times. On my first attempt on it I had tried to continue it upwards as an independent line since that where the topo in the old guide book indicated it went but bailed left to Watusi. A couple of years ago I followed Ed P. on it as he attempted to take the line shown in the guide book. Ed stepped out right and then up. Pretty exciting. Ed took a pretty good whip when he tried to go up too soon. Got back on and sent it. I have yet to sack up and try it.

Thanks for the info on the Recitavist. Pretty impressive effort by Zeb!!! Regarding Dune, if you recall I was there that day. Got a kick out of Zeb when after getting lowered after finishing it he kneeled down and kissed the ground and said "I'm never doing that again." I maybe mistaken but wasn't there another Engberg that has also led Dune?

Kevin Heckeler wrote: If you don't mind cold fingers, you could always start early Monday. Usually by 8 or 9AM the sun is high enough it warms things up quick.

Definitely, I always try to get on the stairmaster right as its getting light, back in November I was getting a pitch in before 8, that way even by afternoon it will be almost a full day if it starts to rain

Eddie2170 wrote: I was getting a pitch in before 8

how "alpinish." I usually wake at 4:00 am and fix rope to the GT ledge.

Eddie2170 wrote: Definitely, I always try to get on the stairmaster right as its getting light, back in November I was getting a pitch in before 8, that way even by afternoon it will be almost a full day if it starts to rain

Wow you were doing this too? Surprised I didn't see you out there. I was out on quite a few early mornings in November. The sunrises were beautiful... I even saw a bear on the carriage road one morning! It's amazing just how few people are actually up there before 8.

I don't see anything wrong with my use of "alpinISH". I didn't say they were alpine climbs, just that at certain times of the year longer routes at the Gunks have the kind of exposure and expansive views I've only really experienced doing backcountry climbs (and yes, some actual alpine in Yosemite and ADKs). And really, it's not like the Gunks are in the middle of the city. The wall is on the top of a large scree field. You're a ways up there and has prominence over the valley.

At least I can find that degree of enjoyment from stuff many others probably just solo as a warmup for the "real" climbing at the yellow wall.

Whatever. I WISH I could climb the Yellow Wall. Someday...

Simon Thompson wrote:Whatever. I WISH I could climb the Yellow Wall. Someday...

Newb. If you aint pulling the toughest 5.11s in the Gunks you really aint climbing.

True that.

Simon Thompson wrote: Wow you were doing this too? Surprised I didn't see you out there. I was out on quite a few early mornings in November. The sunrises were beautiful... I even saw a bear on the carriage road one morning! It's amazing just how few people are actually up there before 8.

Definitely, and the sunrises were incredible, and you might have, Im just a 20 year old kid and you probably overlooked me and my other similar aged partners, not saying its a bad thing, if I saw me walking up to the trapps I'd do a double take and ask myself why they're not in highschool (I will willingly admit to appearing 16 haha) but I actually made it out all the way up to December 16th was my last day out on rock. Ever since ive been itching to get back out.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: If you don't mind cold fingers, you could always start early Monday. Usually by 8 or 9AM the sun is high enough it warms things up quick.

If I didn't have an appoimment for Monday AM that I have been putting odd for AGES - my arse would be down to the GUNKS for the day on Monday before the rain comes in! Damn it!

maybe I need to change my appt, eh? LOL.