One day in Boulder Canyon. Where should we climb?

My partner, GF and I will be stopping in Boulder Tuesday, April 2nd on our way out west. I'm looking for a crag (or crags) recommendation for one full day. I climbed a bit in the canyon 11 years ago (Happy Hour, Security Risk), but wasn't too experienced at the time. Ideally we'd like to do at least one 8,9,10,11, and 12, and we'd like to keep it sporty (although we'll have gear). Warm would be good. I'm not too worried about crowds on a Tuesday, and don't mind hiking a bit if it's worth it.

Dream Canyon
Plotinus
Maybe Animal World
Maybe Blob
Avoid the Sport Park

You might be surprised at the crowds on a Tuesday now

go to clear creek, better climbing, warmer

Boulder Canyon should be plenty warm in April, but no promises since it is Colorado.

I'd recommend Animal World. It has a great 5.8, a couple of ok 5.9s, a cool 5.10 (Cannabis Sportiva - rated 5.11a on MP but consensus is around mid-10 just be sure to read the MP description since the first part takes gear),and lots of sweet 5.11s and 5.12s. You can also head uphill to the Mine Hole Crag for more routes.

Plotinus is sweet too, but doesn't have many 8s and 9s. Lots of 10s-12s though. Blob Rock will be closed for the raptors in April (like it is now).

As far as the Clear Creek vs. Boulder Canyon debate, I like them both. I find that Boulder Canyon has more and better easy routes (through 5.9) than Clear Creek.

i gotta say, i am with Ian.. if you had one day while on your way out west, and wanted to do an 8,9,10,11, and 12, best bang for your buck is in CCC. check out Creekside.

Guppy (8), Fish'n'Chips (9), then do some shenanigans (5.5) to do Brennivin (10-pitch 1), and 100 Proof (12a), then on the way back snag Rhett Wench (11). Boom.

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:go to clear creek, better climbing, warmer

+1 for clear ck. if you get out here and the weather ends up being bad, make sure you check the weather at Shelf. It's a drive but can be dry and warm when the rest of the front range is not.

Make sure you check MP for raptor closures in Bocan. Security risk crag is closed for the nesting season, however the Bihedral, Happy hour and the Riviera are all open.

Eldo.

Or Wall of winter warmth/Plotinus wall

+1 for eldo

I think his question was were to climb in boulder canyon not were to climb on the front range. So I would do plotinus wall or animal world.

I know that the OP asked about BC, but if you end up in CCC and want a warm/sunny crag, the obvious choice is Highlander. It is a bit of an uphill approach, but not bad, and it get tons of sun all day; should be warm and dry. It is probably the warmest/sunniest crag in the canyon. Also, high enough up that you don't feel like you are right next to the road, and the road noise is lessened. Not sure about 8s, but there is at least 1 good 5.9, several 5.10s, a high concentration of 11s, and a really good mid-12 (Peer Review). Would be a good place to spend a day, if you decide on CCC instead of BC.

mountainproject.com/v/the-h…

FWIW, Plotinus, Wall of Winter Warmth, Bihedral, and Riviera won't fit the bill of what you wanted.

Blob, East Blob, Eagle Rock, & Bitty Buttress are closed. It's a big fine!

Upper Dream Canyon might be a bit of a challenge to figure out for sure on the 1st visit.

Avalon may be chilly.

Animal World & Sport Park would fit the bill.

If you consider CCC, I would 2nd Darren's Creekside recommendation, and there is 1 route that would almost hit all the requirements...Solid Gold. There are 8, 9, 9+, 11, & 11+ pitches...although not in that order :)

Plotinus

For Boulder Canyon I would do an Animal World/Avalon Combo. This would give you options for sun/shade. I'm not sure your going to want to climb in the sun April 2nd. It might be nice in the shade. This combo would allow you to choose when you get to the parking lot. Animal World gets morning/afternoon sun and evening shade. Avalon is on the other side of the river and and gets morning shade and afternoon/evening sun. You also get to cross a tyrolean to get over there which makes for a nice photo.

mountainproject.com/v/avalo…
Lust-5.10c
Strange Science-5.11c

mountainproject.com/v/anima…
Animal Magnetism-5.11c

Clear Creek>Bolder Canyon

If you want to do "classics", I'd vote for Blob and Castle (but then I guess Castle isn't too "sporty", but you could get on some really varied climbs).