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Petzl Microtraxion for top rope soloing

harpo-the-climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 300

Why does Petzl reccomend extending the secondary belay acsender on the 17cm sling?

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596
doze wrote:Locking mechanism on microtrax makes me uncomfortable. It looks like it may be easy to dis-engage by accident while being pressed against your body. Maybe just paranoia, but I would keep an eye on it. Also a number of very experienced people have forgotten to engage the device before starting to climb. You could mod minitrax by cutting off the lock with a jigsaw. Doesn't look like you can do it with microtrax.
FWIW, the Micro Traxion locks open via a little tang on the toothed arm. So you depress the button and push the toothed arm up, and the tang locks into a slot up there. If you wanted to disable simple pulley mode, you might be able to carefully file off that tang. Then it could not be locked open.

I spent yesterday using my two Micro Traxions for the first time as TR solo tools. They are easier than I would like to lock open (but still require two fingers: you must cam the armature out, AND depress the lock button), but they also look and feel really different when locked open (the teeth are sticking out and they are super smooth on the rope in both directions). I think it's only a real problem at the beginning of the climb, and then you just have to make it a part of your safety checklist.

I had two of them, each on a separate line, one rigged to a chest harness. They were REALLY smooth sliding up the rope, and quick to lock. Nice.

I think there is a safety factor of the Micro Traxions that it is easy to overlook: they slide up the rope SO nicely, that they are nice and tight on the lines with little climber thought. That rocks and makes them safer than some other choices, perhaps (but I am worried about how they will treat my rope if I use them all the time).
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

That's why i am selling MY brand new Traxion perhaps to someone who wants one for hauling.

I don't wanna drop tons of money on my ropes (2) and risk ruining them while roped soloing using it. Might never happens but I'm not will to take that chance! I'll stick with my GriGri 2 and a knotted back up system instead tho much slower and less efficient than 'free running' devices on the rope instead.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
harpo-the-climber wrote:Why does Petzl reccomend extending the secondary belay acsender on the 17cm sling?
Petzl explains that in the "notes" section:

"The quickdraw helps avoid collisions between the devices, but should not interfere with comfort: adjust its length so the strap does not pull on the neck during a rest or fall"

"The two ascenders must not be connected to the same point on the harness: they can collide and be damaged during a fall"

So the 17cm sling separates the two ascenders. You'll notice that Petzl shows an additional neck sling to keep the second ascender in the proper position relative to the climber. Using an extension sling without the neck sling would allow the climber's connection point to mover above the ascender. Then, in a fall, the climber would free fall 2x length of the sling before loading the ascender. Much more chance of chewing up the rope, IMO.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

Again it's simple.

If you're worried about fucking up your main lead line, just use a dedicated "Piece of shit" rope when TR soloing with a Mini/Micro Traxion.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

You guys are nuts and paranoid. Ropes wear out, shoes wear out. It's consumable gear, USE it.

Like Locker said, your trax rope should be your last retired lead line or general cheap beater cord. So who cares if it takes abuse? Besides, wear on the rope isn't even an issue in the first place if you keep it rigged taut with a bandolier or chest harness.

After having put probably 500 minitrax pitches on the rope I just retired (after using that rope as a lead line for a couple years, I TR'd and traxed on it for several more years), that rope shows basically ZERO extra wear from the traxions. Don't let a bunch of slack develop and then fall on it, and you'll have no issues.

TR soloing with a grigri? Pretty sub-optimal unless you are working a specific short section(s) that you want to climb or attempt over and over with some lowering after each effort.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"I TR'd and traxed on it for several more years), that rope shows basically ZERO extra wear from the traxions. Don't let a bunch of slack develop and then fall on it, and you'll have no issues."...

Ditto!

Those here crying about rope damage probably don't have much of a clue. If they did, they'd probably agree with what you wrote above.

I've personally done 100's and 100's of TR solo's on the same rope via a Mini Traxion, taken quite a few whippers, and ZERO noticeable rope damage (talking YEARS using the SAME rope).

"Yer GONNA die!!!"...
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

OK Locker!
Thanks!

I'd much rather use the Traxion b/c it's free sliding!

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

I've done many hundreds of TR solo pitches using Petzl devices with very little rope damage, and the key is not to get a lot of slack in the line above you (which is avoided by weighting the rope below you so it passes through the device easily). One thing I'll say, though, is I've found the Basic (ascender) better than the Mini-Trax for getting on and off the rope easily, not attaching incorrectly (upside down), and not dropping (has an extra hole for a leash/biner).

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"the key is not to get a lot of slack in the line above you"

Yep!
wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
Will S wrote:You guys are nuts and paranoid
"Nuts" maybe. But "paranoid"?

I use a single 10+mm retired beater rope and a single ascender for self belayed TR. Most times I don't bother with a backup * - at least not at my local crags. But, I'm usually climbing some pretty easy/moderate routes. I usually tie my approach shoes on the rope to keep some tension so the ascender feeds nicely. If I'm doing this at the Gunks on the last pitch of some route I'll tie a knot in the end, rap down and when climbing back up I'll tie in with a Fig 8 on a bight from time to time.

* Disclaimer: ALWAYS use a backup. Just because I choose not to doesn't mean you should.
gary ohm · · Paso Robles · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

I use two mini-trax on separate strands of the same rope. This is way overkill in all likelihood. I am much more concerned with my rope being damaged by dragging over the same piece of rock on a lip or overhang than I am about the mini-trax's teeth. I also keep slack out of the line to the best of my ability.
I still try to think of the poor dirtbag big wall climbers in Yosemite. Most of them probably don't have rope sponsors, or real full time jobs. They have to use their gear to the fullest extent they can. If they trust two mini-trax's on a rope of tons and tons of routes, I think I should too for the comparatively minuscule amount of climbing I do...

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I agree, it does not seem to hurt the rope. Of course, my experience is limited.

But I've climbed on Locker's ancient rope with the Mini Traxions, and it is still humming along fine. And I think that rope is older than me! :-)

If slack builds up, as in a lot, you may sheath your rope. OK, but you're not dead! The only reason I really worry about the wear on the rope is I'm broke right now, so the older top rope line and the new lead line are all I have.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Timothy.Klein wrote:I agree, it does not seem to hurt the rope. Of course, my experience is limited. But I've climbed on Locker's ancient rope with the Mini Traxions, and it is still humming along fine. And I think that rope is older than me! :-) If slack builds up, as in a lot, you may sheath your rope. OK, but you're not dead! The only reason I really worry about the wear on the rope is I'm broke right now, so the older top rope line and the new lead line are all I have.
I agree - and I have 2 brand new ropes at $150 ea and $200 ea and don't REALLY wanna ruin either of them from a solo fall - tho I don't plan on getting THAT far ahead of any device anyway - but one never knows!
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"I've climbed on Locker's ancient rope with the Mini Traxions, and it is still humming along fine"

It is finally getting a bit OLD.

I plan to retire it soon. Thinking maybe August 6, 2017 is about right.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I agree...

Kelley Gilleran · · Meadow Vista · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,812

Tie the rope in the middle. Don't need two ropes. Assuming your pitch is half a rope long... but then you have to rap when you leave and retrieve your rope anyway. Extend the anchor with slings so it doesn't lie on any edges and attach one device to one side and the other to the other. Two devices, two lines, and if you tie a knot to each bolt on the anchor its more redundant. Weight the ends of the lines to ensure the rope hangs taut. Easy to rig the rap weight one unweight the other. The chances of everything failing at the same time is pretty low. I agree using a sling around your shoulder to maintain the slack in the system (Only really needed on the climbing side not the backup side) does limit the free fall distance to practically nothing. You will experience clean climbing without having to tend the line. You will also probably die using this method.

Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

there john i removed my post for you if you were offended... i am sorry, just putting in my thought like everyone else does on this website. if people want to use the mini or even micro traxion to solo so be it. just please my rope soloing friends stack the odds in your favor. that all i'm saying.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Daniel,
I've have used a mini- and micro-trax for over 1000 top rope solos. I have never had a problem with the teeth harming the rope. I have used it both for single pitches and when returning to the upper anchor when soloing leading with a silent partner or eddy.

Make sure you use an oval carabiner as stated by petzl. Don't fall off near anchors if at all possible. Use a backup knot. I use a piece of elastic around my neck to keep it upright.

On each and every pitch check that it holds your weight before you start climbing - one day you will attach it upside down.

Febs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 5
David Coley wrote:Don't fall off near anchors if at all possible.
Why this?
Is it less safe than falling everywhere else?

I am reading as much as I can about solo top-roping because I want to do in the safest possible way.

Thank you very much.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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