Combining Strength and Stamina In a Single Workout?

Charles Kinbote wrote:What does "100+5x V points" mean exactly? I don't follow the notation. edit: And what kind of hangboard workout are you doing?

Climb 100 V Points plus 5 more for every week.

My hangboard workout is as follows.

5 seconds on 10 seconds off for 5 reps on 8 or 9 mm edge for as many sets as I can before I start feeling weaker.

5 second max pulls on a one pad edge with front two and mid two fingers on a slightly sloping one pad edge.

5 second max pulls with back two on the metolious simulator two finger pocket.

Number of sets for everything is contingent on how my fingers feel.

Maybe a reasonable answer is that we need a little more information.

Are you freakishly strong with bad stamina? If so, maybe shortening/limiting the fingerboard work and focusing more on stamina would be good.

Is your goal a 100 foot route? Boulder problem? Winning a bouldering competition where youd need to do a ton of problems over a couple days?

Nico Toscani wrote:Maybe a reasonable answer is that we need a little more information. Are you freakishly strong with bad stamina? If so, maybe shortening/limiting the fingerboard work and focusing more on stamina would be good. Is your goal a 100 foot route? Boulder problem? Winning a bouldering competition where youd need to do a ton of problems over a couple days?

I would say I am really weak for the grade I climb. I want to get stronger to correct this, but I would also like to be able to put in longer climbing days and be able to put more solid goes in on routes at my limit.

I don't see anything wrong with doing both. It should be noted that the fingerboard workout you described is very different from what people on this board are thinking of.

Yours is aimed at improving finger strength, and probably isnt grueling overall so its not a problem to train stamina(or whatever else) afterwords.

When folks in this forum hear "hyp phase fingerboard" they are thinking of an 18 set monster repeater workout that will leave most people pretty destroyed. That's why theyre saying you shouldnt do anything after or else you will get injured. Their workout is described in 'making of a rock prodigy' and its similar to the workouts on the beastmaker app.

I think your fingerboard workout is better for improving strength than long repeaters.

Tons of repeaters really feel like a power endurance workout to me. The whole program seems like, "Power endurance phase on fingerboard. Stop and give body a break for a few weeks and do some campusing to keep power up. Train power endurance again, but this time on a bouldering wall."

Nico Toscani wrote:I don't see anything wrong with doing both. It should be noted that the fingerboard workout you described is very different from what people on this board are thinking of. Yours is aimed at improving finger strength, and probably isnt grueling overall so its not a problem to train stamina(or whatever else) afterwords. When folks in this forum hear "hyp phase fingerboard" they are thinking of an 18 set monster repeater workout that will leave most people pretty destroyed. That's why theyre saying you shouldnt do anything after or else you will get injured. Their workout is described in 'making of a rock prodigy' and its similar to the workouts on the beastmaker app.

To me, the traditional repeater seems like more of a high end anaerobic endurance workout. In my uneducated opinion, it seems better to take generous rest and focus on doing the hardest hangs possible.

Yep, I agree.

Alvaro Arnal wrote:I have heard that doing stamina/endurance immediately after a strength session can diminish the gains of that strength workout.

I've been trying to research the literature on this without much luck addressing the relevant question.
There are lots of studies looking at strength training and running/cycling type endurance training with varying results. Reboot summarized the recommendations of the rowing article pretty well. But that's different from how climbers train. We want to train local muscle strength and local muscle endurance, not whole body cardiovascular endurance.
I did see one article where they did arm cycle ergometry and arm strength training concurrently and found no effect on strength development (at least in men) but it was a pretty small study.
There are some theoretical reasons why training both might be a bad idea, but seems like plenty of climbers do it without obvious ill effects.