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> 3 - Iron Curtain
Aloha Patrol
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 36
votes
Routes in 3 - Iron Curtain
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Aloha Patrol S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Red Button S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Central Pillar of Envy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Defector S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Agent S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Double Top Secret S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fist Full of Rubles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Shot JFK S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kiss My Kremlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spy Vs. Spy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Standard Issue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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White Flag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Aaron Rough and Dave Stallard |
| Page Views: | 8,858 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Rough on Oct 6, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is currently an anomaly in the Bay Area, a spectacular 4 pitch Sport Route! Start on either Standard Issue or White Flag as the 1st pitch.
P2- 5.10b: Head up the vertical huecos/pockets on the red wall above the belay, then up easier block rock eventually heading slightly left to the anchor.
P3- 5.11b: Up easy rock till the overhanging headwall on steep crimps and big moves between good pockets, sidepulls, and underclings. Clip the Leeper bolts that are painted black (line used to be an oil aid bolt ladder) but don't sweat it it, as there are closely spaced regular bolts nearby! Tackle the final bulge on huge holds and then traverse left to anchors.
P4- 5.10b: The final pitch is super featured and fun up an increasingly vertical wall to just slightly overhung right before the crux and the anchors.
To finish the route either rap the route, or have the 2nd pull the lip and wedge themselves in the gully about 20 feet from the rim. The last person can stay clipped in with a long loop for the final moves over the lip and then just reach back down and unclip the anchors. Walk off to the East.
P2- 5.10b: Head up the vertical huecos/pockets on the red wall above the belay, then up easier block rock eventually heading slightly left to the anchor.
P3- 5.11b: Up easy rock till the overhanging headwall on steep crimps and big moves between good pockets, sidepulls, and underclings. Clip the Leeper bolts that are painted black (line used to be an oil aid bolt ladder) but don't sweat it it, as there are closely spaced regular bolts nearby! Tackle the final bulge on huge holds and then traverse left to anchors.
P4- 5.10b: The final pitch is super featured and fun up an increasingly vertical wall to just slightly overhung right before the crux and the anchors.
To finish the route either rap the route, or have the 2nd pull the lip and wedge themselves in the gully about 20 feet from the rim. The last person can stay clipped in with a long loop for the final moves over the lip and then just reach back down and unclip the anchors. Walk off to the East.
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